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Scottish based aspiring mountaineer always on the look out for some new adventure that will stretch and develop me. One half of a husband/wife Alpine adventure couple.
  • Full of hot air?

    Full of hot air?

    A post from Andrew Mallinson, guide and all round mountaineer/skiier

    I recently spent some time in Chamonix in the French Alps.  Activities included some piste and powder skiing as well as a few day ski tours.  Weather was mixed and so I made the best of the conditions on any particular day to get something done.

    Not wanting to neglect the social side of life, I hooked up with old friends and drinking haunts of yesteryear – I first went there in 1979 !  The realisation of my advancing years came quickly.  First the Bar Nationale.   A dubious haunt of British climbers for far too long, (did I really dance on the tables to Bruce Springstein ?), is now an upmarket bistro type place complete with patio heaters and soft furnishings.  Not a smelly Helly Hansen in sight.  Next La Choucas.  The skiers bar of choice.  I looked at the bright neon lights….then I suddenly realised it’s now a fashion shop.  I was distraught actually……briefly remembering a new year in there where what happened is best left unsaid….

    The proliferation of equipment and gear shops continues apace.  Just like the bars, things continue to change.  Snells and Ravanels are still there, but are now accompanied by a plethora of shops dedicated to each individual brand.  In one of the shops I was looking at ski touring trousers but slowly became distracted by a conversation.  In the corner a technically knowledgeable shop assistant was in the process of selling a £900 avalanche air bag system to a customer.  Lots of technical information about the air bag and what it could possibly do was shared.  The potential life-saving capabilities demonstrated with ipad videos, and little models resembling those snow dome things you shake and the flakes go everywhere.  Apparently this lady could ski wherever and whenever she liked now without fear.

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    Two days later and there was a big fresh fall of snow.  I was keen to get going and make the best of it.  I caught the bus from Chamonix at 07:20 and was in Les Houches for just past 8am.  Looking as nonchalant as I could I slid on to the first cable car with the lifties and bar staff.  Putting my skis on at the top of virgin powder pistes I was completely on my own – EPIC !!!!  Plenty powder on the Les Houches pistes which they didn’t groom….the skiing was great.  Knee to thigh deep on a solid base……just wonderful silent skiing.  Down at the bottom and with the my ski peace shattered I jumped back into the cable car along with a couple of North Americans – complete with avalanche airbags.  They were enthusiastic and keen to explore the trees of the Les Houche basin, and rightly so.  What was disturbing however was the comment “Don’t need to worry about avalanches mate, we’re both carrying air bags.”

    There is no doubt that technology has improved the skiing experience.  Modern technology in the form of improved bindings has led to far fewer injuries.  Modern materials have made skis more responsive and accurate – ski length bears testament to that.  But I find the encroachment of technology into the avalanche equation deeply worrying.  Not the technology per se, but the impression it appears to be giving to people that they are now invincible….. “An air bag may be £900 madam but it will save your life,” said the salesman.  Well, will it?  And will a probe, shovel and avalanche transceiver save your life?  Really?

    Clearly, if caught in an avalanche, whether skiing or mountaineering, then such pieces of kit can and have improved the odds of survival.  What would improve the odds of survival substantially however is avoiding the avalanche in the first place…..

    Many, indeed most avalanches are triggered by the victims themselves. ….and many are killed or injured by trauma suffered during the avalanche.  So avoidance is clearly preferable.  Therefore, question….how many people spend £300 on a probe, shovel and transceiver, or £500+ on an air bag ,AND an avalanche education and avoidance course?  Listening to overheard conversations, (a bad habit I know), would suggest some people don’t think its necessary….and I wonder if the technology is contributing to this attitude.

    Things do change, be it watering holes or technology!  But I cannot foresee a time when technology is a replacement for education and good decision making in the mountains.  Or am I just full of hot air ?

    Andy Mallinson

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  • Bivvi under the stars

    Bivvi under the stars

    It may surprise a few readers that I have never actually wild camped or bivvi’d before now.

    With our Eiger Mittellegi ridge  adventure planned for May training is now well under way on a a number of areas like fitness, rope work, knowledge and also experience.. the one thing you cant read about or buy!

    To get the experience ball rolling , and address the post Christmas/house move fitness hurdle Davy Wright and I planned a night of bivvng and then a day of climbing on and around Ben Nevis’ North face. It is winter after all and the routes will be in awesome condition right? No.

    With VERY unseasonable high temperatures for January (11° C anyone!) The Ben along with most of the other central and west highlands had shed its first winter coat and rock was the order of the day.

    Decisions to be made then. While rock is fun we decided with a Bivvi as part of the plan to opt instead for the Carn mor Dearg (CMD) arete with a night on the lower slopes of the CMD.

    So arrived in Fort William about 6, grabbed a quick dinner then headed up to the North Car park for the slog up to the Ben (I’m sure it gets longer every time I do it) . Packed and dressed for winter , our packs weighing what felt like a small child we (well I) huffed and puffed our way up the hill, stripped down to baselayers until we found the expected small level plateau at about 500m.

    This is Scotland, January, at 8pm and its 9 degrees!

    For me it was also a great chance to test some gear – look out for the gear test reports  VERY soon.

    We set up , bedded down and then tried to got some kip before waking at around 6am to start the days walking.

    For anyone who’s not done it before a bivvi is a a unique experience. I have to admit i was  a little unsure of how I would feel being “exposed” to the elements (and creepy crawlies) .. would I get wet, would I freeze etc.

    The reality is amazing!

    The bag itself felt solid and together with the Thermarest and new down bag , on soft ground, made for a pretty comfy night. 

    Lying looking up in the near pitch dark seeing then ocean of stars (between clouds) was truly amazing. I gazed at them for an age and before I know it nodded off – relishing how good it was to be truly away from it all on a Friday night rather than in the pub or feet up in front of the TV as has been my recent activity …

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    After an early rise setting off to CMD summit and the ridge – note the bare Ben ! 

     

    Yes.. you wake up now and then.. slide about 6 feet downhill and lose hats, torches and 1 elusive glove in the bag and yes going for a pee requires some effort and is bloody cold but I highly recommend it to anyone who enjoys the outdoors and a little bit of adventure!

    Awake at 6.30.. up and about to get warm then back into the bag to get some grub to fuel the day.davy being the true outdoor fanatic he is has pre prepared porridge midge in these extra tough zip lock bags that you can pour boiling water straight into. 

    Brew on, porridge made and belgian chocolate brownie going down well we were good to head off.

    As the sun came up we were treated to one of the most stunning cloud inversions I have ever seen . Simply couldn’t stop looking at it but the hill beckons so off we head.

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    We finished off the day with a walk along the CMD Arete – a big day and with a cheeky steep 200m ascent to finish you off up to the Ben summit plateau.

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    Davy Wright on the ridge.

     

    What better way to get a mini adventure out of 24 hours!

     

  • A winter week in The Alps

    A winter week in The Alps

    Feb, 2016

    Day 1 arrive in Chamonix  via Geneva,

    Best way to Chamonix is via Geneva, approx. 2 hour flight from the UK , then hire one of the many transfer buses (before you land as you can’t book at Geneva) for a 1.5hr hop to Chamonix (I’ve used Alpybus each time and they seem very good). You can either pay in advance or pay the driver but if you opt for the latter make sure and take Euros with you as Geneva ATM’s do not give out Euros to non-Swiss residents. Rough costs is 55 Euros each way.

    Accommodation wise there is lots to choose from but Winter (November – May) is ski seasons so prices tend to be higher than Summer (June – October) . Options include Air BnB or you can opt for one of the hotels. We chose Hotel Alpina this time (booked via Booking.com) and it was almost center of town so has easy access to everything and even a local ski hire company connected for discounts. A room in winter can cost £30 a night of you Air BnB or £100 a night upwards for a hotel.

    Cham is a vibrant town so if you are staying centrally be ready for the odd late night music disturbance or “Happy” reveler in the streets but it’s not too bad – you can always join in!

    The town is small and you can easily walk around it end to end. Outdoor shops are abundant and there are a great spectrum of bars and places to eat. We can highly recommend Big Horn in Cham Sud – a new arrival (but great!),  Moo Bar  and a lunch time favorite  Boccalatte and , other favorites for drink and buzz are Elevation and Bistro du Sport (climbing/skiing videos on a loop) – I highly recommend Mt Blanc beer , especially the Vert (green one) with added Genepi!

    Check-in done first thing to do is check weather and avalanche forecast for the next day – one way is via the Chamonix app available for Android and iOS , or check your hotel lobby for postings. The Chamonix Website and apps include webcams, lift times (needed if you plan to go up the mountain) and ski information. Access to the Vallee Blanche area for hiking/climbing is via the Aiguille du Midi lift and with a top station and restaurant at 3842m elevation it’s a great place to start your acclimatization and get some awesome views!

     

    Day 2 Weather reports and what to do

    With a day on our own before we were linking up with oir guide for a few days climbing we took one look at the weather and decided to stay in the valley and maybe take in some local sights. Sam (my wife and climbing partner) needed new boots so we took the opportunity to hire a car (Europcar in Chamonix, opposite the station,  is very good but go in person , the website is not up to date ) and head to a nearby town called Sallanches to visit the outdoor “mega store”  Vieux Campeur.

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    Prices are a bit cheaper than UK and Chamonix town and the range can be bigger so it’s a god idea if you need kit and can drive.  The outdoor stores in Cham do stay open until about 7.30 pm though so last minute gabs are easy. Never worry about not having gear with you, you can buy everything in Cham!

    From there we parked in Sallanches lovely town centre and had a walk around for a bit before grabbing a late lunch and then heading back to Chamonix to relax and prep for the next day

    Day 3 Ice Climbing in Cogne– Ice is fickle so our guide James Thacker had a personal challenge finding us routes that were in condition and accesable given the bad weather in Chamonix Valley. The answer was Cogne on the Italian side of Mt Blanc so off through the tunnel we headed (Carry your passport at all times as border guards are on high alert these days). If you want good routes and  no crowds get up early so at 6am we are grabbing coffee and pastry in a bakery before arriving at Valnontey valley to access Patri a WI3/4 graded route. The walk in was beautiful, deep snow making it inevitably comical at times but at last we reach the route base (avoiding protected nesting areas marked by signs).

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    We geared up and managed a couple of great pitches, taking our indoor ice wall practice outdoor and it paid off. Bullet hard ice and amazing views made for a super days climbing. Patri splits at the top to Patri a droite (right) and Patri a gauche (Left) so plenty options. Bolted belay points makes abbing off simple once finished. A great intro to WI (Water Ice) climbing.

    Day over it’s the walk back out, drive back to Chamonix and a beer and sleep ready for the next days climbing!

     

    Beautiful walk in and out

     

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    Topping out of the first pitch of Patri


     

    Day 4 Ice climbing in Lillaz valley,

    Today was more ice. Given the desire for a shorter (non-Scottish!) walk in we initially headed for the left of Lillaz Valley where a cascading waterfall freezes to form a superb multi-pitch route almost 10 minutes from the car. Sadly the rising temperatures has rendered it unclimbable for now so we turned around and headed across the valley to Lillaz Gully. After a steep push up the hill we arrived at a stunning twisting, narrow gully full of cascade ice and snow pitches. Steeper and a bit tougher than Patri it made for amazing climbing into the afternoon. The full route runs to around 8 pitches however time means we only did a few before backing off, just as some small avalanches were starting as well as darker clouds creeping up the valley. As we reached the car the first rain drops started so we timed it well.

    Picture below of James starting off on pitch 1 of Lillaz Gully (WI4), looking back down the gully

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    Day 5 Snow shoeing around Les Houches, Le Prarion

    Our climbing objectives pretty much done and continuing tough weather meant we opted for a more “relaxing” day next. A great way to see the Chamonix Valley are and have a real alpine experience (if you don’t ski) is to snow shoe (or Raquette as the French call it) !

    Hiring snow shoes is very cheap (think 7 euros a day) so we grabbed a pair each and headed to the next village of Les Houches to hit the snow shoe trails. There are raquette trails all over the valley and we grabbed a pass at Les Houches for a day (around 24 euros) and headed up the ski lift to head off. The falling snow, trees and thick ground covering meant we entered a world of quiet, white enchantment – think Narnia without the weird animals. Walking in such thick snow is almost impossible but the snow shoes make it easy and you can cover  a lot of ground pretty fast. It was superb, great fun and on our way to the summit of Le Prarion (1860m) we stopped to practice some avalanche search skills. Learning how to use a transceiver , getting a shovel and probe out and ready in under a minute –  and some guidance on types of snow pack formation, temperature gradients, and crystal formations  (Alp’s vs Scotland) as well as basic but essential rescue tips.

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    A highlight of the day was a top on descent at an amazing little find called Les Vielles Luge  , just off the piste it’s a tiny but amazing restaurant. Its somehow manages to pack lots of skiers in to a tiny place but in comfort, the staff are brilliant , the atmosphere very friendly and the food and drinks delicious (think hot chocolate with rum and strawberry cheesecake as well as traditional fare). Small, wooden and with mountain paraphernalia round the walls it was a great respite from walking.

     

     

    Approaching Les Vielles Luge

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    The alpine interior

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    After eating and drinking our fill it was time to get the snow shoes back on and head off down the mountain to finish our day.

    Day 6 Skiing for beginners at Les Houches,

    It was out last day so we had to make it count.

    One benefit of social media is making new friends and we have now forced some great friendships in Chamonix with some amazing ad at ti e inspirational people. Two of which Steve and Menna were kind enough to offer to teach us to ski. As I’m slightly older than 25 learning to hurtle down a slope at high speed on 2 planks was daunting but it was well overdue and if I plan to gain entry to more challenging climbs skiing would be essential so off we went.

    A quick stop into the ski hire shop at Hotel Alpine saw us fitted out in boots, skis, poles an a helmet for less than 30 euros! Steve picked us up at 8.30 and we headed to Les Houches once more and up the ski lift (a day pass is around 45 euros) .Steve is a superb skier and mountaineer while Menna has recently learned so we had benefit of experience and someone who remembers what it’s like to learn, and under their expert tutelage and  after a few tumbles, scary turns and frustration at 4 year olds flying past us we soon managed to enjoy ourselves. By the end of the day we were getting more confident, the ski lift operators even coached us each time we clambered on!

    Les Houcehes offers all garded of run as well as nursery slopes so is ideal for beginners an more experuecend skiers alike! The mountain backdrops prvide a stunning atmoshpere and we had a truly excelelnt day. Late afternoon we decided it was time to head off so while Sam and I jumped back on the ski lift Steve and Menna opted for a more direct route, with Steve taking the black run directly under the lift so we could watch him in awe!

    Ski lesons now booked for more! If you want to find out more about Steves incredible story look out for the forthcoming film Magentic Mountains – http://www.magneticmountains.com/

     

    The planks, Sam and I looking the part

     

    What a backdrop!

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    Alan McIntosh is an aspiring mountaineer who together with his wife now travels to climb and hike across Scotland and Europe and has recently competed the Big Hex Mountain challenge where he and his team set the official and current time record. For more info contact him on Instagram @Coachmacca or see his tweets at @McLovinTheMountains.

     

  • Scottish Outdoors 

    Scottish Outdoors 

    Friends in the outdoor world.

    Here at Mclovinmountains.com we love to share news and information about other awesome people creating content, running small business or just doing cool things that celebrate our love of the outdoor world – so today we wanted to highlight our good buddies over on Facebook , Scottish Outdoors.

    We will have more from the Editor Lorn Stevenson soon but head over and take a look at the beautiful photos and posts from around our amazing wee country  .

    https://www.facebook.com/Scottishoutdoors/ 

  • Top Out, on tap 

    Top Out, on tap 

    A Scottish independent ale brewer with mountains of talent !

    Following on in a series of independent mountain related business (ok I’m stretching it a bit here ) McLovinMountains agreed to take one for the team.and try out some small batch ales from Edinburgh craft ale house – Top Out . I had the peasure of meeting them and sampling some of their brewed delights at a recent Urban Uprising event in  the Glasgow Climbing Academy.

    Based in Edinburgh the bewery has been prioducing beers since 2013. In relation to their appropach here is what they say in their own words :

    Inspired by brewers the world over, we aim to create the best beers we can imagine without compromise.

    We have a growing stable of core beers and a steady stream of unusual, limited editions and enticing collaborations. Combining brewing influences from Germany, Scotland, Belgium and America with the worlds best ingredients we create great tasting, original craft beers.


    Top put has a range made up of 7 “core” beers and 3 “limited editions” and blends Scottish and german brewing methods to provide a very tasy ale!

     

    In their core range are

    Simon Says-On, Staple, Pale Ale, Altbier, Schmankrel, South Face and the Cone with their Limited collection comprises Copperheid, Smoked Porter and gthe Winter Beer.

     

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    All are big on flavour and punch,with particular stand outs – for me the AltBier is the best but the Smoked Porter is something else!

    The Alt Bier (Alt meaning old ) is a 4.3% lager-ale , dark and hoppy and sporting Ben Wyvis on its label.

    The Smoked Porter is a peaty, smoky monster at 5.6% but smooth and very tasty (The official tasting notes sugest turkish coffe sweetness) – I didnt know whether to drink it or chow down on it – very moreish!

    Wrapping the delicious and intriguing flavours are the beautifully designed labels incorporating Orndance survey style maps of hils and mounatins close to the head brewers heart.

    They provide a unique and attractive difference to the curent trend for weird and wonderful imagery and for anyone who loves hills and maps its an instant draw. The Staple for example shows the mighty Ben Macdui in the Scottish Cairngorms (see below for more info)


    As mentioned each one is unique and offers a real bang for your buck in the flavour department. Im sure everyone will have a favourite and my suggestions is to try them all (although maybe not all in one sitting!).

    Enjoy! And remember – help your local independent!

    Top Out’s founder and head brewer Michael spent most of his free time in recent years in the mountains and on the crags.

    As a keen mountaineer and fell runner he has visited most of Britain’s walking and climbing regions as well as having travelled further afield to pursue his hobby.

    On weekends you’ll often find him running in the Pentland hills, only about a mile from the brewery, or going for a quick saunter up Arthur’s Seat in Edinburgh.

    To sample for your self see http://topoutbrewery.com/where-to-buy.php

    Follow them on Twitter @TopoutBrewery

    For more information or to contact that – Top Out Brewery LLP, Unit 3, 6b Dryden Road, Loanhead, Edinburgh, EH20 9LZ, UK.

    +44 (0) 131 440 0270 info@topoutbrewery.com

  • An Interview with Urban Uprising

    An Interview with Urban Uprising

     

    Just as everyone gets ready to let the training and diet go, spend too much on presents and set out the mince pies for a certain jolly red suited fat man I managed to catch up with Stuart Green (founder) and Niall McNair (Ambassador)  to find out about more about the climbing inclusion project – Urban Uprising

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    Guys, tell us a little about you?

    Stuart : Hi Alan, well, I’m 41 so depressingly I just qualify for the veteran’s categories in climbing comps! I’m not sure I’m ready for that! Niall isn’t too far behind though…

    I’ve mostly lived in Edinburgh but spent eight years down in London when I first started out with my job. Just now I live in Edinburgh with my young family of four and work as a long-haul airline pilot flying out from London Heathrow and Gatwick.

    I got into climbing whilst studying English literature at Dundee University and it’s been a constant theme in my life. I’ve tried lots of other sports but found climbing to be the most absorbing and the one that gives me the biggest adventurous kick. I like to feel I’m doing something off the beaten track. I enjoy all aspects of climbing, trad, bouldering, winter and sport and my current focus is on trying to bag the easiest 8a sports route I can find!

    Niall : Hey,

    Nipping at yer heels, mate! 4 more years until I qualify for vet status, watch out Stu…  

    I also live in Edin ( with my family) where I moved nearly 18 years ago from Eaglesham/East Kilbride, south of glasgow.   I work as a support worker for a small organisation called Inclusion Alliance where we provide 1-2-1 assistance for adults with disabilities as an alternative to day-care services during the week.  Although just recently, I ve completed my basic training as an arborist (tree surgeon) and looking to have a career change into this area. Returning to my roots, so to speak!

    Indeed, The Glasgow Climbing Centre is where I really started learning to climb and thence onto Neilston pad, Loudon Hill, Auchinstarry and of course the mighty Dumbie.

    I started Climbing when I was 15 whilst having a difficult time and school and life generally, I am sure many teenagers have felt the same at some point but this was compounded by my deafness.  I was getting into fights and got expelled from school such was the severity of my frustrations.  Discovering climbing basically turned my round at that point.  from early on, I enjoyed the competitive side of indoor climbing ( Alan Cassidy was one of my early arch-nemesis) .  Then from there i got into the real outdoor stuff:  trad, sport and finally bouldering- backwards to how most kids do it these days…

    My current focus during the summer months is trad, mainly in Scotland and the Lakes, be it on crags, mountains and seacliffs; I ve got a long list of E6s and E7s that I want to tick off my bucket list.  These days the routes I go for are generally safe and well protected So at E7 level they are very sustained and/or cruxy for the grade so sport fitness and bouldering strengths definitely help…The problem i have these days is that my my bucket list keeps getting longer thanks to that Dark Horse and a very good friend, Iain Small, who puts up more hard routes than I can climb every year!

    Another goal of mine is to ground up Requiem E8 6c at Dumbie.  Ive already spent around 10 days on this spread over 4 years and its proving to be a massive personal challenge for me!  Most ascents of this stunning line (indeed, the King Line of the central belt?) have involved some kind of pre-practice, however Will Atkinson (more on him later btw) showed the way forward 5 years back by making the first ever ground-up ascent.  That was when I knew I had to pull my finger out and get on with it…  My highpoint is the top of the initial crack, but to get there I’ve had to learn how to climb evil flared technical slopey jams.  My crack climbing skills up to now would be best compared to the movements of an epileptic raver.  So, this is an ongoing challenge for me…

     

    For those who don’t know, what is Urban Uprising?

    Stuart : So, in a nutshell, Urban Uprising is a UK registered charity that takes children from disadvantaged circumstances out rock climbing. We think it’s a great way of boosting self-esteem, focus and getting these children into a mentally and physically challenging, fun and positive environment. Without our programs these children wouldn’t get this opportunity.

    In terms of how it started, I’ve been fortunate to be a regular visitor to Rio De Janeiro with my work for some years now, and have frequently climbed with a rock climbing guide called Andrew. Andrew had started a rock climbing school, which focused on teaching children from the local favela (shanty town). I could see that the project really made sense and set out to support it in any way I could. This started with shipping donated gear over to the project and then ultimately led to me forming a team to start Urban Uprising back in 2014. From there we’ve gradually morphed into something much bigger than I first envisaged. We started working in the UK after TCA Glasgow approached us with the idea for running a Glasgow based project and from there we’ve started to add to this with others, which we call Uprisings. The plan is to expand on this model in the UK in the future. Edinburgh is next. Bristol and Sheffield are options too.

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    So what were the very early days like?

    Stuart : I’d never had any charity running experience myself before setting this up, so to some extent I was blissfully unaware of what challenges we would face. I met with other charities, advisory bodies and mentors to try and get an idea of what I might be letting myself in for and get advice on the implications for setting up a charity. These meetings were really useful and a common theme was ‘it’s going to be much more work than you think’. Even taking this on board, that’s turned out to be very true! Like in climbing, being stubborn was a really useful quality to have to get through the initial tough stages when everything seems to be overwhelming.

    I think initial enthusiasm though only takes you so far and then at some point you actually need to know what you’re doing and get other people on board who do too. Sarah Hayden came onboard as a trustee at this early stage. She works for the Duke of Edinburgh award scheme and is very experienced with charities. It was at this point that I knew that the concept could be turned into something really exciting in reality.

    An early challenge was getting people to know who and what we were without us actually having done anything in terms of delivering any teaching programs to children. Without a presence within the community, it’s really hard to get the ball rolling and expand the team, get people involved, raise funds and so forth. We’re now in a much nicer position of people increasingly knowing who we are and actually having a number of projects under our belts. The team has also expanded significantly, so things are getting done quicker and better which is satisfying.

     

    Niall,   How did you get involved in Urban Uprising?

    Myself and a good friend, Mike Mullins, came up with idea of putting on a fund-raising club-night for the edinburgh climbers and getting Will Atkinson to come play for us as he is an amazing DJ himself who has played at some legendary clubs in Leeds.  Initially, we were going to do do it for Climbers Against Cancer but at that same time the first posters for UU appeared at Alien Rock and I realised this would be a better fit for us to fundraise for a locally based climbing charity.  I approached Stu and he was immediately on board with this idea although it took a while and it wasn’t until we asked Ewan Evans (AKA Swank n Jams, another fantastic DJ) that things really started moving and the very first club Uprising happened to great success.

    During this time, I was finding out more about UU and their aims to provide climbing outreach programmes to disadvantaged youth resonated with me, particularly due to my own transformative experience of discovering climbing at a difficult time in my life.  The more I found out, the more I wanted to help out and be a part of UU.  It’s not just been organising the Club Uprising (of which there have been 4 so far)  that I ve been involved with but i ve also been carrying out public speaking roles at comps such as the TCA and at Alien rock on behalf of UU.  Also, Stu and myself gave a presentation to the Dumbarton Rotary club in which I told my personal story.  Given that we secured £1500 from them, i would say that was a success.

    I used to hate public speaking but now I’ve done it for UU on many occasions , i have the right motivation for helping to get the UU message across so I am looking forward to doing more talks for them, watch this space….

     

    What does being involved mean to you personally?

    Niall: I’ve gotten so much pleasure, adventure, life experiences and solid friendships out of climbing that UU for me is a way to “give back”  and expose youths to that same power.  I am intensely aware of how “middle class” our sport is and I feel very strongly that those from less privileged backgrounds should get the opportunity to try and experience climbing. And it is up to us as members of the climbing community to effect that.

    And of course, through organising the clubs I’ve enjoyed bringing different parts of the climbing community together to have a loud party!

     

    Stuart :On a day to day level, I get a lot of pleasure out of working with so many different but always super motivated people from within the climbing and charitable community. In the short time that we’ve been running, I’ve met with film producers, photographers, DJs, social workers, graphic designers, web designers, public speakers, event organizers, business owners, climbing route setters, professional climbers and others. There’s so much talent out there, which I find really inspiring. Seeing the positive and transformative effect that this sort of project can have on young lives is also satisfying.

    The other more hard hitting side of things is that It’s made me much more aware of the huge social problems that are faced by so many, not just overseas where it’s often obvious but more subtly right by our front doors. One in every three children for example in Glasgow is living in poverty. That’s got to be unacceptable and I feel as climbers we should engage with this.

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    Tell us about a memory that really stands out for you, maybe a particular challenge or success in the program? 

    Stuart: Niall isn’t going to particularly like this example but I’ll go for it anyway!

    I climbed a seven pitch ( 1200 foot ) route up the pretty intimidating west face of SugarLoaf mountain in Rio with Niall and Caio (17), one of the older children being taught out there. It’s a pretty steep bit of climbing. About E3 or thereabouts in UK difficulty terms. At one of the hanging belays, Niall managed to get the ropes into an almighty tangled mess which took an age to sort out. As we hung there with a 250 foot vertical and overhanging drop beneath us, the weather started to turn and it started to get dark, cold and windy. I remember thinking…..oooh this isn’t going so well. I was giving Niall ‘get a shift on’ daggers as he was faffing with the ropes. It was one of those tangles that after 20 minutes, ended up with us all untying and then starting again from scratch. All the while Caio was cool as can be, totally composed and chatty. I’d promised him that we were going climbing with one of Scotland’s best climbers…I’m not sure what his impressions were; he’s a polite guy! Needless to say, all was fine in the end. We got to the top a few hours later for a celebratory beer in the pitch black with Caio still totally unphased by the whole experience.

    A couple of years before this when Caio first turned up at the climbing school, he was a very different young man. He was incredibly shy and had to be literally coaxed over many sessions over a period of six months to get to the top of a 30m top rope. The change is really testament to the power that these programs can have and the hard work put in by Andrew, who runs the program out there. If you go to Rio now, Caio is able to guide you up various mountains and rock climbs. This is something that wouldn’t have been possible without the involvement of the school in Rio.

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    Niall : Ha! That wasn’t my finest hour, I must admit. To make matters worse, I accidentally skipped a bolt on the final hand traverse pitch-well it was pitch black by then..

     

    What’s next for Urban Uprising?

    Stuart: There are a couple of exciting things on the horizon for us. Edinburgh Uprising is starting in early 2017 and then another Uprising south of the border in late 2017. The exact venue isn’t decided yet. In 2018 we plan to open more Uprising’s elsewhere in the UK.

     

    If people wanted to how would you suggest could they get involved?

    We’re always looking for volunteers, so get in touch via our website or Facebook if you think you can help somehow.

    It’s always helpful for people to ‘Like’ and share our posts and page. We’re also on Twitter @urbanuprisinguk and Instagram @urbanuprising_climbing

    And if you’d like to fund-raise for us then we’d also love to hear from you. A sponsored climb, run, cycle or simple chuck some cold water over your head…..it’s all good by us. Also look out for our Uprising club nights, organized by Niall. They’re always great fun.

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    Stuart, if people can’t support personally is there a link to let them donate?

    Yes, there is a donation link on our Facebook page @ www.facebook.co.uk/urbnuprising or on our web page @ http://www.urbanuprising.co.uk/donate or you can simply text ‘URBN00 £10′ (or £20, £30 ) to 70070 or buy one of our T-Shirts!

     

    So with Christmas just around the corner – what do you want from Santa?

    Stuart :How about some craft beer to enjoy in front of an open fire whilst watching ‘It’s a Wonderful Life’ please Santa. (Hope you’ve been a good boy then – Ed)

    Niall : I’d like for Donald Trump and Nigel Farage to be stranded on a desert- no make that an Artic island- with no means of contacting the outside world. That would make up for this political muck up of a year! 

     

    To close us out then what’s big/coming  in 2017 for each of you guys?

    Stuart : That 8a that I was talking about. Also getting over my vertigo and general fear of exposure before climbing El Cap with Robbie Phillips eeek!

    Niall : I tend not to set my myself any definite goals or routes as so much depends on the weather, who you’re climbing with, your own fitness and psyche, family dramas and a hundred other factors that you never quite get all the things you want to do in a year. Having said that, I’d like to get up Requiem and continue getting into the mountains. Maybe do an Easter trip to Pembroke instead of clipping bolts in Spain…

     

    Massive thanks to both Stuart and Niall for taking the time to talk to us, go check out UU  at www.urbanuprising.co.uk and get along to an Uprising near you in 2017!

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  • My First Climb

    My First Climb

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  • Schiehallion

    Schiehallion

    Winter days in Perthshire

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  • Simple is as simple does

    Simple is as simple does

    By Andrew Mallison, our resident Mountain guide.

    For some bizarre reason I took up golf.

    During a period of frustration, induced by family restriction, I needed something to do when I couldn’t get away climbing.  Bad decision.  I bought the book, the CD,  the DVD, the clubs, the spikes, the clothes…the lot.  I invested in some instruction from a guy in Aberdeen who could play a bit, (think he was called Paul Lawrie…).  And having spent £1,000’s I still hit scores of over a hundred every time….shooting less than 90 for a round of golf was never going to happen.

    And then by chance I saw a TV programme about a guy who advocated simple golf.

    I watched him play a round of golf in t-shirt, jeans, trainers and using just 3 clubs – a 7 iron, a pitching wedge and a putter.  He did 18 holes in a score of 78, just golf played in a simple way.  The next week I went out on Hazelhead Golf Course in Aberdeen with the 3 said clubs and you can guess the rest…..86.

    Thinking about my climbing some years later, it’s a lesson I’ve still not forgotten.

    Over the last four decades I’ve really simplified the technical aspects of my climbing, in terms of the equipment I use and the systems I employ.  A few examples would be:  I only use one knot – the double figure of 8; if I’m not the first person down I don’t back up abseils – I get my partner to hold the tails; I don’t use slings for anchors – I use the rope.

    Because for me the simpler it is, the safer it is.

    Because when the pressure is on….it’s 8pm, in mid January, cold dark and bloody scary, at the top of The Steeple and you need to get the job done…..if it’s simple you’ll get it right when it matters.

    And it’s worth thinking about all your mountain skills….

    Are you over-complicating matters ?

    Have you got too many clubs in the bag ?

  • Wild Country by Mark Vallance

    Wild Country by Mark Vallance

    Wild country, the Man who made friends (Vertebrate publishing) is the superb autobiography of a climber, arctic science base commander, businessman, latter president of the BMC and I would say visionary (he wouldn’t)- as much though its an autobiography of one of the most recognized of Climbing gear – the cam.

    The book charts in a witty, honest and at times deeply open and vulnerable style, enlightens us to the early days of peak district climbing, through  the 70’s and a chance meeting in Yosemite, the 80’s and the early days of Wild Country , the tough business times of the 90’s , the changes he encouraged and drove in organisations like the British Mountaineering Council and through to today when suffering from Parkinson’s he could probably still  out-climb me!

    Yes, at its core is the story of how the Friend came about and how camming devices came to change climbing and with it tales of patent issues, deals gone sour and a view into the deep and (I’d say), rare value with which Mark held his workers and the quality of their product. Not a businessman to trade, certainly not an mechanical engineer the story of how in ’78 the Friend finally came to market is both fascinating and funny.

    Mark has some amazing tales to tell as well as some amazing climbing names to count among his friends and I was fascinated to learn about subjects as diverse as how the British Geological Survey base in the arctic functions, how friends are engineered (in good detail) and how business even in the seemingly benign , often spiritual world of the outdoors remains both complex and a very risky enterprise. (Insert Friend related joke at will 🙂 )!

    Mark is certainly not afraid to speak his mind and  Wild Country gives a great insight into how personal decisions, crusades and vision at times led to friendships being challenged, partnerships being broken and the road ahead taking some serious blind corners but its told in such a way as to be a relief from what can be at times an unrealistic view of our well cerebrated community of mountaineers and climbers.

    1 part climbing history, 1 part business chronicle and a dash of humour, personal views, feelings and insight and you have for me the perfect night time literary cocktail.

    Grab it now and enjoy every page!

     

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  • Tin. Stronger than you might think.

    Tin. Stronger than you might think.

    Our 10th wedding anniversary   (Tin for those like me who didnt know) and I’m returning  from a business trip to Barcelona. 4 days away and I am more then ready to come home.

    I was coming in late but at least I was going to make it home on the day.

    Life over the last 10 years has been an adventure in contrasts. 

    Finding marriage to a pretty awesome person (I may be biased) but losing my father isnt a trade I would recomend for anyone but the latter without the former would have been impossoble to bear.

    Nearly having a breakdown after the loss and nearly losing so much more but then finding ultimate solace and saving that which was most important through the unlikely discovery of the mountains.

    Sometimes you need to do somethimg very hard to make life so much easier to carry. Pushing your physical and mental limits helping you shed pain and stress , carried in the sweat of effort.

     And through it finding everday life not a challenge to manage but instead an adventure to salve the soul.

    My flight is delayed. I miss my connection. I’m not making it home today.

    You only get a 10 year anniversary once. Tin.

    Gates closed and the next flight isnt until tomorrow so off to a hotel I head after being processed more like lost luggage than a inconvenienced lifeform. 
    But life is an adventure . Will getting angry or upset make the plane fly earlier? Will passing my stress to another get me home any quicker? Will worrying stop time so that I can stil make it today? 

    Better to resolve it, think instead about how to make the adventure more comfrtable or fun..smile and maybe even improve the day of the poor lady facing all these self important disconnected travellers. Be a radiator of good not a drain. 

    I had been watching a film on high ball bouldering on my flight , Jamie Woods working a 1st ascent V16 and what seemed a minor point in the film became a major tool to bring out of the mental tool box.

    Breathe in through the nose. Out through the nose. Calm. At peace. 

    So I sit here at 6am a day late. A day too late. The world waking up and heading to destinations unknown while I head to the only place that matters.

    I’m heading home to continue the adventure. It’ll be our 11th anniversary next year. Let’s see where the adventure takes us before then.

    And for those like me who dont know,  11 years is steel. 

    Steel is much stronger than tin.But tin it seems is stronger than we might think. 

  • E.O.F.T 16/17 – review

    E.O.F.T 16/17 – review

     

    If somehow you don’t know what EOFT is then let me educate you

    The European Outdoor Film Tour is a travelling film fest showcasing frankly the most awe inspiring, heart -warming, adrenaline charging, tear jerking outdoor adventure movies on the planet!


    From extreme Kayaking to Big face climbing via Mountain Biking, steep skiing and wing-suiting you are granted the keys to audio visual nirvana for any outdoor enthusiast.

    Having made it to 2 previous EOFT’s but missing the last one I spotted a poster for this years so grabbed 2 tickets for the Glasgow showing last night at the great venue of the Old Fruit Market in Glasgow’s Merchant City.

    Joining the around three hundred other like-minded souls Sam and I took our seats and settled down in a sell out house to enjoy what was to come. EOFT’s key sponsors are Mammut (I really want that giant inflatable Mammoth!), Gore-TEX and Ellis Brigham but a raft of names support this brilliant festival of all things adventure.

    Rather than wax on about it, and try to convince you that its an event not to be missed , let me take you through what was on offer and you can make your own mind up!

    Please note all pictures that follow are copyright of the filmakers but I thought it best to show you how glorious the scenes can be.

     

     

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    First up was Locked In by Directors Bryan Smith and David Pearson and follows a team of 4 of the world best Kayakers as they attempt to ride the length of the Beriman river in Papua New Guinea to reach the Solomon Sea. Think super steep drops, claustrophobia inducting tight canyons and some of the gnarliest rapids anywhere on earth! More than a Kayak route to tackle this run means a full on expedition over 48km and 13 gorges. Filmed both from action cams on the team and from the air it’s a stunning and exciting visual treat for anyone even if you prefer high mountains to wet feet. Plenty of moments of both rad rapid running and more than a few  “that was close!” moments to keep you glued to the screen

     

     

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    Then onto a story of a German mountain biker who finds peace and slowing of time only when going fast, very fast on some of the most extreme and exposed terrain you can imagine. In search of the Flow as Harald Philip explains it is what drives him to push the comfort zone enough to expand it, but not to burst it. Directed by Christian Schmidt and Joachim Hellinger this short films follows Harald as he finds downhill lines across varying extreme landscapes including routes normally reserved for via ferrata hikers on the edge of some serious big drops and super fast downhills along routes that he will take time to go and clear even if he rides them only once year. Heart in mouth moments balanced with intriguing personal insight into what drives us to take risks.

     

     

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    After that we head to a more introspective look at BASE jumping life and brotherlike friendship lost in the carefully directed and very personally narrated When we were Knights. Directed by Anson Fogel and taking the form of a spoken letter that was never opened we hear from Matt Blank himself about the friend and constant companion in climbing and wingsuit he has lost. Ian Flanders died doing what they both loved but does that make it any less tragic? Matt talk from the heart in equal measures of open love for his best friend and of the hole in life his loss has created. Beautifully filmed and perfectly delivered. A story you simply can’t turn away from.

    Then its lights up and the intermission. As is usual at the EOFT it’s a mad dash for the loo and a beer but also to check out what’s on offer to buy , see who’s around and to stick your ticket in the eagerly anticipated raffle for some shiny new gear.

    15 minutes later and the MC is on stage and has invited a young adventurer from the audience to select the lucky recipients of some cool prizes before its back to why we came and part 2 of the films begin! I never win these things…

     

     

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    To kick off half 2 it’s a film called La Liste which see’s the “extra terrestrial” steep ski level skills of Swiss youngster Jeremie Heitz aim to take on a list of 15 , north face big alpine faces. At typically 55° and at altitudes and situations that most of us budding alpinists would see as bucket list stuff these are no normal lines. Stunning white peaks, jaw dropping skiing at up to 120km/hr and great filming mean edge of the seat stuff and more than a few “jesus!” moments.

    And to think I get nervous on the indoor slope if it’s too icy!

     

     

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    David Llama is an incredible climber and has been since childhood. Hi skills are obvious – but does his heritage have a part to play? In Lunag Ri he returns to his father’s homeland of Nepal to revisit roots he’s not sure her truly has and with the legendary Conrad Anker to tackle a beast of a peak – Lunag Ri. Balancing his exploration of what Nepal means to him and the technical challenges of the climb this film by directors Joachim Hellinger and Peter Strauber shows Nepal in all its Himalayan glory and sees Llama and Anker tackle the incredible face that needs them to run the full gauntlet of rock, mixed, ice and big wall climbing.

     

    The film at times was a bit uncomfortable to watch as Llama seems to reject his roots as where his skills come from instead feeling its earned, not seeing the culture the way perhaps his father does and at times seeming lost for words on how to describe his feelings – but that’s what makes it so honest. Anker 27 years his senior is no lame duck instead showing yet again why he is one of the most legendary Alpinists alive today – and sees him mentoring the younger Llama from a position of experience –  at one point being very open that he takes less risks now , “unlike these young guys “.

    Do they make it?

    You’ll need to watch it to find out!

     

     

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    Pen-ultimately we move to something a bit different from the typical expedition or big mountain  climbing saga. This time it’s about the real human frailties and realities that we don’t often get to glimpse among the high altitude celebration of alpine achievement. An epic expedition across Myanmar via Planes, Trains, motorbikes, extensive and exhausting jungle trekking and then mountaineering Down to Nothing follows a group led by Hilaree O’Neill as they attempt to first of all reach and then climb and   summit Hkakabo Razi in former Burma. Along with Emily Harrington, filmmaker Renan Ozturk, Cory Richards and Mark Jenkins we see them deal with gear movement, lack of logistic resources, dwindling resources and fracturous pressures that lead to very testing times high in the Himalya.

    An exploration of what lengths we will go to , well beyond what is “do able” and what happens when we finally hit the wall this film is a glorious journey through amazing landscapes of Myanmar, personal demons and some amazing mountaineering. When you are down to nothing, what do you do?

     

    Before we know it we are at the last movie of the night but what a way to finish!

    It’s time for Adventures of the Dodo

     

     

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    If you don’t know who the reverend Bod Shepton is you’re missing out! This octogenarian explorer and climber is the man you need to know if you fancy some new routes in the very far north of Baffin Island. And who would want to go and find these climbs? A crazy foursome of climbers (Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll , Ben Ditto and the slightly bonkers brothers Olivier and Nicolas Favresse ) who spend as much time jamming , drinking and larking about as they do putting up some astounding routes!

    As the group set off across the frozen seas for Baffin on the 30 foot sloop the Dodo Delight Bob is treated to high jinks and late nights before dropping the team off to climb . New routes up some big faces and sea shanties make for a hilarious climbing film like no other and show that Bob is unlike any 80 odd year old Reverend I’ve ever seen! 

    To top it off after the film he joined the MC on stage in his trademark “feed the rat” t-shirt , baseball cap and shades to tell us more tales before treating us all to a rendition of the films theme song “ Dodo’s Deleight”.. still stuck in my head!!

     

    Think you fancy the EOFT? Yeah. Thought so.

     

    Oh, and that raffle? I only bloody won didn’t I and am now gthe proud owner of a pair of very lovely Zeiss Terra ED 8×25 Binoculars! Thanks EOFT!!

    For more information on the films and to try and grab some tickets to EOFT showings go to https://www.eoft.eu/