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Scottish based aspiring mountaineer always on the look out for some new adventure that will stretch and develop me. One half of a husband/wife Alpine adventure couple.
  • Van life diaries by Shelley McBride

    Van life diaries by Shelley McBride

    Craving an escape from real Life, but having spent all of our savings on the very real life purchase of bricks and mortar we scrounged Roxy the Van from our (fabulous and generous) pals Yvonne and Andy and headed north, north, north with dreams of 2 weeks of climbing sunny warm rock and lounging on empty beaches…but in reality prepared for 2 weeks of peeing rain and Atlantic gales…it’s October in Scotland after all.

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    16th – Wait on Mike finishing work, and bringing me new socks, load up Roxy and make a long drive from Dundee to Assynt, via a chippie in Aviemore of course. Arrive to moonlight views over Stac Pollaidh herself and enjoy a whisky. Mike realises all the playlists I’ve downloaded are Beyoncé and Bieber based, he’s delighted.

    17th- Awake to views of The Fiddlers nose, and the weather looks ok. Take a wander up Ben More Coigach, and on to the summit of the wonderful Sgurr an Fhidhleir, with utterly fantastic views over the Assynt hills, lots of dramatic autumn light. Afterwards head to the Kylesku Hotel for a beer, then a camp near the bridge with views over the fiord like loch.

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    18th – Forecast dubious, but head up Quinaig in promising sunshine, soon hit clag, strong winds and rain picks up. After first summit abandon the ridge for a pie in Lochinver instead, which we munched sitting by the water in glorious sunshine. Sure I hear Mike humming Bieber, he denies this. Drove to Reiff and camped at Port Bhaigh, had a nice pint in the Am Fuaran bar, drooling over the smells from the restaurant. Make Quesadillas in the van and drink Ardmore until we fall asleep. Prefect prep for climbing tomorrow.

    19th- Head to the Reiff crags in glorious sunshine. Abseil in to Black Rocks, cry mid route and realise I hate the sea. Get in loads of great routes in the Pinnacle area until the sun goes down, unbelievable sunset over the west coast. Can’t resist pub food smells, scoff langoustines and drink too much beer. Camp at Achnahaird Bay in the pitch black.

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    20th- wake up to the most stunningly beautiful sunrise over the Inverpolly hills, take tons of pics whilst having breakfast and picking out Stac Pollaidh, Cul Mor and Beag, Quinaig and Suilven. Weather glorious! Head out over the Reiff Peninsula to get out to climbing at the far reaches…guidebook states hour walk in. 2.5hours later arrive at the crag with soggy feet, but eager to climb. Cracking sea cliff climbing with amazing views…total solitude, worth the walk in. Walk out via the coastal route and have a nosy at Spaced Out Rockers On The Road To Oblivion, looks nails. Head back to Ullapool to stock up and camp for the night.

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    21st- Lazy morning in Ullapool trying to buy a phone memory card, then worked our way up the north west coast stopping at Laxford Bay for easy slab climbs with great outlook towards Arckle, then onto Ridgeway View Crag near Rhicoinich for some great crack climbing and an amazing sunset with views to Fionavon! Realise never want to go home. Feel high as kites on the amazing weather and great climbing. Mike even asks for Bieber. Camp at Shegra Bay in the dark, fall asleep to crashing waves and have dreams of falling in the sea.

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    22nd- Wake up early and watch sunrise over the Shegra cliffs towards Assynt. Walk into the beautiful Sandwood Bay again in bright sunshine and clear skies…wander around, stare at Am Buachaille sea stack for ages and fall asleep on the beach in double down jackets. Head back to Shegra in the afternoon and climb on superb rock and great routes at Second Geo, what a place!! Drive to Durness for the night. Get steaming.

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    23rd- feeling tired. Have a rest day gorging at Cocoa Mountain who claim to make the best hot chocolate in the world, and its damn good! Explore Smoo Cave and walk round the coast. Forecast looking good. Head towards Ben Hope and camp at the foot of it. It’s BALTIC! Creepy noises in the night appear to be a T-Rex hunting, Mike informs me it’s the Stags rutting…

    24th- Get up Ben Hope, arrive at the summit in 2 hours to thick clag. Put on every garment in our bags and sit down to wait. Perseverance wins and the summit clears to (MORE!) glorious sunshine and extensive views over the north coast, spot Orkney. Decide Ben Loyal looks great and it goes on the wish list. Arriving in the glen its roasting so have a swim* in the waterfall pools by the path Drive through the empty and very remote feeling Sutherland for a pint at the Crask Inn, then on to Kinlochewe for whisky at the Kinlochewe Hotel Bar. Camp up in minus 1 degrees.

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    *dunked for 3 seconds then sprung out like a cat falling in the bath.

    25th- Sunny sunrise at Loch Maree then climbed all day at Stone Valley crags in howling gales with numb fingers, managed my first HVS! Camped at Gairloch.

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    26th- Rain. Cloud. Fog. Meh! Spent the day drinking tea at the Mountain Cafe. Decided to abandon Gairloch and plans for climbing on Slioch, drove to Applecross via the coastal road and witnessed another amazing sunset over Skye. Dinner at the Inn and fantastic whisky I can’t spell.

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    27th- Forecast awful. Plans for Rum and Eigg abandoned. Head over Bealach Na Ba in about 5 metres visibility and head back to Fort Bill. Get drunk in Weatherspoon’s.

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    28th- Spend the day at Polldubh Crags in Glen Nevis. Climb some steep stuff which i fall off with numb fingers, abandon this for some nice bold and delicate slab routes which I LOVE. Almost fall off again when massive boom shakes the glen, turns out its Typhoon jets being scrambled from Lossiemouth! Leave the glen thoroughly delighted, head back home with a final tiny trifle at the Green Welly.

    What a trip!

    Things I learned: Van life rocks, I hate the sea..  and Mike does love Bieber (Knew it!).

    Shelley McBride and Mike Wilson are a Dundee based couple who have been climbing together for 4 years – in their own words “Lovers of mountains, climbing and other folks dugs. Mikes the one with the beard. Adventuring out of Dundee since 2012”

    Shelley is tweetable at @Shelbymcb

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  • Autumn light and leaf

    Autumn light and leaf

    Woodland walks around Bothwell, Glasgow. The light of my childhood.

  • Rising Up for opportunity

    Rising Up for opportunity

    MclovinMountains.com was lucky enough to be asked to help out at the Urban Uprising event hosted by the TCA (The Climbing Academy) in Glasgow this weekend.

    This day (and night) long event included a bouldering comp (amazing route crushing btw from ALL competitors and ages!) lectures/talks by Niall McNair and none other than the climbing “machine”  that is Dave MacLeod , raffles of some awesome gear and a bar offering a unique range of craft beer from TopOut Brewery.. all topped off with banging tunes later in town (I didn’t make that bit sadly!)

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    For those (including me until now ) who don’t know what Urban Uprising is,  we will have a more in-depth look in a future post but in brief it started to support an already up and running outreach program to help gang kids find a new focus by getting into climbing , based in the heart of a Rio Di Janeiro favela it offered a rare opportunity to escape the drugs, violence and downward spiral that is almost impossible to avoid in a sprawling unofficial town of an estimated  150,000 souls  packed into a valley  at the foot of Sugarloaf mountain .

     

    Urban Uprising exists to raise both awareness and much-needed  funds for this Rio based program but also outreach initiatives closer to home and is now opening doors to kids in areas like Ayrshire ,Glasgow and soon to  Edinburgh,  which despite their affluence in city centre and leafy suburbs still retain areas that sorely need our support if people are ever to escape generational poverty and the other social challenges that follow it.

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    Police patrolling a favela, in a tank

    More than just teaching kids how to climb it offers a window to a world of community, comradeship, trust, personal challenge and success, and structure that many sadly don’t have today. For many of us our comparative comfort and financial more stable background means we can head to a wall, or buy gear or go travelling to climb with ease, where for many this would be a pipe dream or put you at risk of being shot by a gang.

    Urban uprising aims to change that.

    The day kicked off with a multi class comp with kids under 7 right up to the vets category (more my sort of age! ) and everything in between. The climbing was incredible, routes deviously challenging and we witnessed some true grit as people dug deep even with seconds to go to send the final routes.

     

     

    Prizes were donated by some big brands like Scarpa, BlackDiamond, Sidetracked magazine and Szent chalk. The outdoor retailer Ellis Brigham were also a key prize contributor.

    Now that the climbing was done it was time for the lectures, so after us setting up the sounds and screen (my job for the day) the guest speakers got down to business.

    Niall McNair, ambassador for UU opened with a very engaging visual  insight into how the project came around, the challenges faced by the Favela daily, a  tour of climbing on Sugarloaf mountain and the work Urban Uprising has been doing  which educated  and stupefied many of us who didn’t have the deep awareness of the harsh reality of life in these modern-day slums. (Think police using tanks for patrols due to risk of gun violence on a daily basis!). By the end I know everyone was pretty blown away and sees that the opening of opportunities that UU brings to a local community is unquestionable.

     

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    Niall Mcnair, Urban Uprising ambassador

     

    After a short but exciting raffle ( my better half won a harness but as the true superstar she is swapped it for a case of TopOut ale – taste review to follow!) it was time for Dave to take to the floor.

    Dave MacLeod is well-known for incredible climbing both on trad (think Rhapsody E11 7a – possibly the hardest trad route ever)  and Scottish Winter/mixed  with many first ascents to his name at eye watering grades (The Hurting XI,11 and Anubis XII, 12) but is perhaps less well-known at bouldering, despite his incredible skills!

    He took us on a journey more about mentality and his approach to climbing, than how to crimp and hook, the anti logic he came to apply to his training and diet, and how his sheer stubbornness pushed him beyond what he felt his climbing skills should have allowed (his words not mine). With some glorious video footage we saw him climbing in Patagonia (new route on the Fitzroy range) and  his successful attempt at the F8c of Practice of the Wild at Magic Wood solidifying this 37 year olds place in the climbing polymath hall of fame.

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    Dave speaking about how the science doesnt always know best

    All of these feats coming from a place not always as positive as I certainly aim for mentally before any climbing.

    And this was the crux of his talk.

    Dont always assume the science and common wisdom is right, for you. If it works for you, if it feels right the  try it. maybe its a new training technique, diet or just attitude. Dont always feel if you arent 100% positive you can’t climb, maybe it’s that doubt that drives you.

    I term it anti logic and it certainly has me thinking. I have used a bad mental place as a reson not to push a grade or get off my butt and do a route, I’ve not gone to the wall because I don’t feel fit , and its an excuse.

    Just because the crowd think says do this , do that… – maybe do something else!

    By the end of the evening everyone was completely enthralled and I certainly left the event both totally stoked to go climb but also very humbled by the work Urban Uprising are doing.

    And of course I enjoyed watching some great climbing !

    Look out for more on Urban Uprising to come in a future blog but to find out  more now and to donate (get your hand in your paypal pocket folks ! ) go see Urban Uprising

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  • The Spirit is Strong in Aviemore

    The Spirit is Strong in Aviemore

    Founded by  Rob and Angela Edmonds they aim to offer the best clothing and equipment , often out of the mainstream compared to the usual offerings  in other stores focused on Skiing/Ski Mountaineering – a passion they all share – and also offering more general mountain gear for everyone keen to explore the Cairngorm’s or beyond.

    As avid SkiMo participants they can offer real advice basd on tehir own experience and their range of clothing, ski’s, boots and accessories is superb.

    I particularly liked their aim to offer something different or, in the case of Houdini something that offers a unique aspect. See Candid Pants on test for more info on what makes Houdini so special. Importantly they offer some ranges unavailable elsewhere that we have come across so we had a treat trying new things on.

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    Rob (Right) and team member Josh (Left) “hard” at work

    When we popped in en route home recently Rob and Josh could not have offered a more friendly welcome. Their energy is great and spotting a sale on the horizon their knowledge  kicked into gear – Rob offered us an espresso and we were shown a range of kit for exactly what we needed – I left with a full bag!

    Their services include sales of course but extend to hire of absolutely everything you’d need for a day in the mountains from boots, axes, crampons right through to Ski’s, poles and avalanche safety kit – a Ski Mountaineering kits starts at £40 per day, £65 for 2 and £20 for additional days which I thing is amazing value for money!

    This is a snapshot of their hire list on Oct 6 2016

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    Their clean, easy to use website also links to Weather and Avalanche safety info and has a webcam looking over the slopes of Craigellachie at around 500m , handy for planning your trip!

    Mountain Spirit is a genuine find and somewhere I know i’ll return to.

    Small business needs you so next time you’re passing thorough (or near to) Aviemore go check them out.

    Wishing all the best to Rob and the team!

    For more info see Mountain Spririt, email them at info@mountainspirit.co.uk (mention McLovinMountains.com) or call on 01479811788.

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    If you are a small business specializing in the outdoors or you know one who deserves some spotlight let us know!

  • Aird Hill, Badachro, Wester Ross

    Aird Hill, Badachro, Wester Ross

    Returning to Badachro almost 30 years after I had visited with family was always risky as memories are often through rose tinted spectacles and revisit rarely make the grade but with Badachro and Aird Hill I was happily proved wrong.

    Vanessa and Gordon have created the perfect hideaway of a supremely comfortable, very stylish and moreish B&B set overlooking Badachro’s bay with a view to the stunning Torridon mountains.

    The rooms are big enough for 2 but understandably for a property in its location and style, fairly compact (we stayed in the Mountain room but the Skye room is bigger offers different views), are exceptionally clean and beautifully appointed in a modern but subtle nautical theme (Gordon loves to sail), has TV/DVD, free WiFi and lovely modern en-suite facilities with a super power shower.

    Breakfast (included) offers a great selection of  cereals, juices , coffee , cooked quality Scottish fair or even a lovely scrambled eggs and smoked salmon. Dinner is offered at £27.50 and is a superb set 3 courser (we had fresh Langoustine’s, a hearty beef stew and Vanessa’s incredible home made Sticky Toffee pudding.)

    There is also a great selection of wine, beer, whisky and other spirits available to drink at the dinner table or better taken in the comfy lounge offering floor to ceiling windows and extensive views.

    As we were heading out for a day in the mountains we  requested a packed lunch and got a great selection of quality filled sandwiches – think parma ham and pesto on home made bread rather than simple ham and cheese! – crisps a biscuit and fruit (all for a very reasonable £7.50 a head). On our second day we even got fresh baked cinnamon swirls , provided by one the hosts children !

    Now that’s well trained kids – and they were incredible!

    The rooms are very stylish but still cosy, the hosts are lovely, the food is delicious and the setting is superb, For some the drive to Badahcro may seem far but as an extremely relaxing base for Torrodon or the Wester Ross coast its ideal – and the local Pub is superb and very welcoming as well as offering good local fare!

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    Lastly (and the hosts cant guarantee this of course ) – due to its location at 57° N and almost zero light pollution stars are incredibly clear against a pure black sky with the Milky way right above your head and often you can catch the Norther lights (although sadly not on our visit).

    Overall ? A very big thumbs up from us! we really didn’t want to leave!

  • Depth of field

    Depth of field

    Walls and windows, that what I spend my days looking at.

    In offices, in the flat, in the car or in a bar.

    Walls and windows. A cage we all build for ourselves, a means to and end to make money, feed the family, get to our destinations, share our time together.

    Walls and windows though, are grinding me down. I need to break the bars of the cage.

    Torridon.

    Torridon. The name alone opens the lock. That mythical mountain nirvana in Northwest Scotland with Skye on one horizon and Assynt on another. Defiant battleships sailing across Lewishian Gneiss. Sandstone castles built and shaped by billions of years of geological play time and meteoric calamity.

    Drive north, drive some more and reach the end the world in Wester Ross. Badachro with its few homes, 1 pub and a handful of B&B’s.

    57° North and as far WNW as you can get in the UK and nothing but coastline, mountains, lochs and the expansive unfathomable North Atlantic.

    No walls and windows. Instead summit ringed horizons and skies morphing into waves.

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    The cage door is completely open. The depth of field is infinite. The air clear , the sounds of nature instead of phones ringing, airport announcements and constant cantankerous soul sapping traffic.

    .Sumitting in the wind. Drinking from the burn. Walking in the sand. Dozing in the sun

    Time slows. Warmth flows. Heart grows. Tension goes.

    Torridon. I can take walls and windows for days like these.

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  • On Test – Ski Pants by Houdini

    On Test – Ski Pants by Houdini

    On our route home from travelling around the northwest of Scotland we stopped off in the Scottish mountain hub of Aviemore for a coffee and to see what was on offer – and made 2 great finds.

    The first was Mountain Spirit, an independent mountain and ski wear retailer run by a brilliant character Rob Edmonds. Rob and his team have a passion for skiing and ski mountaineering so had loads of great knowledge and advice to offer.

    Lookout for the upcoming The Spirit is Strong in Aviemore  for more on these guys.

    The second thing, and focus of this test was a brand called Houdini Sportswear. So who are Houdini?

    Reading their “about us” section you get a feel for the positivity and ethos that really attracted me

    “Maximum experience. Zero impact.

    We are a Swedish outdoor company founded in 1993 that offers a complete range of functional clothing, from underwear to shell garments. We want to help people experience more, perform better and have more fun. Without leaving any impact on the environment. This is our vision. When we design our products, sustainability and functionality always go hand-in-hand – neither is of any value without the other. We make products for curious people with big hearts. People who love this planet as much as we do and therefore want to help protect it.” – Houdini Sportswear

    Like many of us I am looking more and more for ways to reduce my negative impact environmentally so this really resonated with me and coupled with the apparent technical qualities of the gear I picked a pair of the Houdini Candid Pants in Blue Illusion (a dark navy).

    So what was I testing for ? 

    3  things

    • Fit – shape, articulation, comfort overall
    • Resilience – waterproofing, thermal qualities and general toughness
    • Technical – any elements positive or negative

    As it’s a bit early for Ski Season I opted to head for Snow Factor near Glasgow where you can enjoy Blue run equivalent skiing and boarding on real snow all year round in the giant frozen facility (which includes cafe, ice climbing and even an Ice Bar!). Being a newbie it was also a great chance to get back on ski’s and build skills and confidence.

    So what did I think about the Candid Pants?

    I’m 6’1″ , fairly slim and have long legs so first it’s about fit for me. I have found the Scandinavian brands work better for me (34″ leg) and at a 33″ waist I opted for Medium in the Candid pants which fitted really well. I prefer a clean, not baggy fit  as I also look for gear I could potentially climb in and these hit the mark perfectly.

    The waist has a great velcro cinch feature that means you can draw the waist in (or let out apres ski!) and it holds well without a belt however belt loops are included but I didn’t experience any slippage without one.  Although clean lined they have enough room and shape to allow complete freedom for carving around the slope it total comfort , good knee articulation means no restriction or  uncomfy stiff shell areas.

    Clean fit and full length zip/vents

     

     

    As a newcomer I still fall ever now and then but the Candid’s cope no worries, they have a strong shell outer to beat off any abrasion and the Eco Storm combination of Atmos membrane and 2 Layer shell from Teijin Fronteirs co. means they are fully waterproof not just snow proof but also wick moisture quickly and effectively aiding breath-ability. As a shell they run cooler than an insulated pant so I coupled with powerstretch style leggings and was very comfortable. I tend to run hot so always look for a more breathable offering and these pants met the grade well even after a couple of dozen runs. For context the Snow factor air temperature is -12C and ground temperature is -4C but I felt very comfortable around the legs.

    Strong grip waist cinch

     

    Now for the sexy technical bit !

    The candid are a well designed, clean line pant (unless you want to opt for baggier of course and have shorter legs), side vents/zips run full length so venting heat or getting boots on and off are a dream and if I switched to climbing in them, adding them over thin walking trousers I could easily get them over big boots. They also have a reinforced Kevlar instep to reduce abrasion and guard against the occasional crampon scratch.

    Full length zips and internal gaiter

    Small integrated snow gaiters with easy to use studs (even in gloves) and strong, easy to use zips add to the feel of quality overall. I already mentioned the adjustment cinch at the waist – it’s really strong and I didn’t have to keep hauling them up all day but instead could just ski and relax. Pockets wise they have 2 pretty roomy thigh pockets (OK for a small route map) and smaller high front pocket for cash, ski pass or whatever.

    The material used in my Candid pants is a proprietary 2L mix of polyester shell from Teijin Frontiers Inc.   (again chosen for minimal environmental impact), coupled with the Atmos membrane . Its robust and clearly strong but not as “crinkly” as say Gore-Tex Pro so feels more luxurious and comfortable than some other shells. Eco Storm shell is extremely waterproof to 20,000mm hydrostatic head with a permeability of up to 15,000g/m2 over 24hrs making this one seriously performing fabric. The Atmos is a very clever Hydrophilic membrane meaning it wicks moisture at the molecular level not via pores so doesn’t clog over time and lose its breath-ability.

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    Houdoni have also worked hard to remove fluorocarbon DWR from their fabric and have been steadily phasing them out since 2015.

    Overall :  The Candid pants are a high quality, technical ski pant. They performed well in my test, are very comfy to wear and their sustainability credentials are inspirational to say the least. Massive thumbs up from me. I will be seeking out more Houdini in future!

    The Candid retails at Euro 350 RRP (Check out Mountain Spirit Aviemore for current pricing in the UK) . They weigh in at 556g and come in 4 colours.

    For more on their sustainability see Houdini Sportswear . Check our Houdini on Instgram at @houdinisportswear

  • Climbing Frog Belay Glasses on test

    Climbing Frog Belay Glasses on test

    Samantha tests out a solution to belayer’s neck!

    What Climbing Frog say on www.climbingfrog.co.uk (beautiful site btw!)

    “They help you keep an eye on your buddy and don’t bust your neck, what more could you ask for?… A great price? Well at only £24.99 and free postage and packing we won’t break your bank.”

    What Samantha says ….

    “We were long overdue for a day at the indoor climbing wall and with the EICA‘s extensive selection of nice long routes it was a great opportunity to try out the glasses. We had seen others wear them and certainly  I know the ache of craning your neck straight up while your partner climbs (faffs, waits, rest, try again… you know the drill!) so if they solved that particular problem I might be sold.

    I admit I had some initial reservations. They are slightly weird looking if I’m honest, could add more complexity to a (relatively) risky sport and , well… its just not normal is it!? But I was game so off we went.

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    While Alan tied in to climb and I  set up his belay I tried them on. I could feel immediately how robust they were. Not too heavy so as to be an issue but they didn’t feel flimsy which is a bonus. I tried shaking my head a bit and they stayed put which is a further positive, but right away the moving of my head highlighted the first thing  to be aware of and manage – the view moves sharply an can be disorientating at first. very quickly with use this is fine but good to note as you start out.

    The glasses work by combining high clarity lenses with very polished internal mirrors so that when your head faces straight ahead you can actually see 90 degrees  up the wall. They are very clear, no distortion or fog whatsoever which really impressed me but there is a small element of “separation” from the climbing at first but this soon passes.

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    After a couple of climbs and getting used to checking my hands “below” the view field and deciding to remove them if I had to do something more risky – like moving my position –  I was very comfortable in them.

    Instead of the usual sore neck, stiffness or just plain tiredness you can get from belaying I was able to relax physically , keeping my head pretty much level , no tension interrupting my focus on the climber and in a way felt more focused as I was more conscious I had to think  about  what I was doing with my hands. When it was my turn to climb  I was fresh, and  very relaxed .

    For long leads where you need to look up for extended period, or for when you need to hug the wall and lean far back they really do make a big difference (or just for those of us over 30 who get aches and pains more!).

    And while I know they wont suit everyone,  given that they even offer a (pretty awesome I think) no risk money back guarantee if  you’re not satisfied it’s almost a no-brainer for most.

    For shorter climbs maybe not to much (and I recommend not using them when the climber first moves off, instead waiting until they are above usual head height) as they do take some extra care and thought in moving off and lowering off so the benefit  the trade of is lost somewhat.

    In terms of improvements I would suggest also including a neck loop option so I can hang them round my neck when not needed. I was worried I’d drop them at times. I recognise this adds cost of course.

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    All in all, given the ease of carrying (see above the carry case even comes with a small biner to clip to your harness), the relatively low weight and the low cost (vs others on the market) they really could be a good investment for a lot of climbers – especially indoor wall or sport climbers who do long lead routes.

    They are definitely staying in my pack and on my rack!”

    To see more or order see Climbing Frog on this link  and enter “Alan” at the checkout for 10% off !*

    Samantha is an all round Scottish hillwalker and mountaineer, indoor/outdoor sport climber, enjoys ice climbing and alpine adventures and is starting to dabble on ski’s although she does prefer high heels!

    She is also the very patient better half to Coachmacca 🙂

    *10% off for the first 10 readers to purchase.

  • Get a plan.

    Get a plan.

    For any regular readers its been clear I have been finding that my motivation, drive and energy for Mountain related activity has been somewhat dampened by very human realities of house moves, work and having fun in more traditional adult ways like eating out and enjoying beer gardens and bars.

    My previous piece “The Pendulum” verbalised  my very real and constant fear of losing love of the mountains permanently.

    They say admitting the  problem is the first step in solving the problem.

    They say it for a reason. It’s true.

    I was touched by the number of people both personally close and on social media who expressed both appreciation of the writing but more intimately their concern for my mental malaise. One in fact even noted it was ironic that it was this deep concern that made him feel it was my most powerful piece yet.

    Admitting the problem is the first step. But whats the next?

    A goal. They say a goal without a plan is just a dream.

    So I got a plan.

    Not long after my post I was contacted by a good winter climbing buddy Steve Dunne who mentioned to both myself and another close mountain partner Davy Wright that he was thinking about doing something challenging in Spring 2017 and do we want to team up.

    Within 10 minutes and once the  discussion turned to the main objective and the plan I was back –  full tilt , my mind running at pace, thoughts of ice and snow, of gear, of that delicious alpine mix of excitement and fear that only mountain climbers can understand.

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    While I will be sharing details of the plan over the coming months already I am back in the gym working my body hard, my diet has focused again on being strong and light, I’ve been out on the dust magnet that was my mountain bike , I’ve started reviewing kit, booking accommodation, discussing routes on forums and have a very real spring in my step.

    I got a plan!

    That halo of happiness is clear, I’m more motivated at work, more relaxed at home and being nicer to those who matter. Cue booking a romantic weekend for my wedding anniversary! I’ve dropped that lazy fat , can already see the climbing machine re-emerge.

    The Pendulum is back to its correct position in the arc and I am working hard to prepare for May. Its a long way off so just to keep it swinging I’ve already booked the CIC hut at the base of Ben Nevis’ north face for 2 days of the unique experience that only a Scottish Winter climbing trip  can offer!

    So it appears for me the process is Admit the problem, get a goal, make a plan and dial it all in.

    Alpine spring here I come , you better be ready!

     

    Oh an PS.

    Plans are made to be changed – and that’s all part of the fun. Like all the best road trips , you might deviate and take in some new scenery along the way but you need to start in the right direction. Have a plan. Stick to it. And if you cant – make a new plan!

     

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    Photos are , in Order

    Climbers on the Midi Ridge, Mont Blanc Massif

    Steve Dunne Traversing Alladins , Cairngorms

    Alan McIntosh, Boomerang Gully Glencoe (Credit John Gupta, Mountain Expedition )

  • Preparing For Winter

    Preparing For Winter

    A guide to that best of climbing seasons that is fast approaching  by our resident expert and Mountain Guide – Andrew Mallison.

    I’m not ashamed to say it, and no amount of Amy Winehouse style rehab is going to alter the fact…. I’m an addict….

    A complete and utter Scottish Winter addict…..

    I’ve climbed all over the World – India, Nepal, Pakistan, Morocco, France, Italy, Switzerland, Norway, and even Wales…..but for me, nothing beats Scotland in winter.  The sheer mental and physical challenge, together with astounding beauty and harshness in equal measure, is so magnificent as to be almost overwhelming.  As an experience in which to immerse yourself, it doesn’t get much better than this…..

    And it’s the size of that challenge, the nature of that experience, which can place huge demands on us as mountaineers….and there are only mountaineers in winter…I don’t think  there’s such a thing as winter hill walking, only winter mountaineering.  To meet that challenge, and enjoy it, we need to be ready…..and as some Chinese General or other once said, 90% of battles are won before they are fought.  So what can we do to be ready?  To ensure we have an awesome day out in the cold/wind/snow/ice/sun of a Scottish Winter?

    We’re all different and I refuse to be in any way prescriptive, but what I thought might be useful is to tell you the things I do to tip the odds of a brilliant day on the hill in my favour….and I’d say my success rate is about 8/10 so I must be doing something right.

    Some of this you’ll think is rubbish, some just plain stupid…great stuff…don’t do it.  But maybe the odd thing may just help you….so, in no particular order…..

    1. Start early in your prep….like now….don’t wait until the first snow falls.
    2. Leave the central heating off as long you can…start getting used to being cold.
    3. Same applies to the car heater….leave it off.
    4. Get out walking….a lot…and I mean a lot.  Days of 10, 12, 15+ hours a day, regularly, every weekend.  Notice that I say hours and not miles – time in the saddle is what’s important here as winter days can be long.
    5. With time under your belt, fill your sac with ropes, climbing gear, the kids, whatever you have, and walk the walks again.
    6. Did I mention doing lots of walking? Even if you’re climbing, the majority of your day is actually spent walking.
    7. If you can’t get out on the hills, walk from home….lots…..no reason not to do at least 1-2 hours every day….if it’s dark get a head torch on.
    8. Start wearing your big winter boots on walks.  You may look a right wally but your feet/ankles/calf muscles work in a different way with big boots so get used to them.
    9. Similarly, start carrying a full winter sac on walks….you can always hide your axe & crampons inside the sac…or just add an extra rock…it’s all about getting used to the weight.
    10. Do your crampons fit your boots?
    11. Do you know where your axe & crampons are?
    12. Check all your gear for wear and tear….are my gaiters shagged out?
    13. Where is all your gear?
    14. Fix what needs fixing now….not on the hill on your first winter outing.
    15. Put super long tags on all your zips.  The ones already on jackets and the like when you buy them are crap….too flimsy and too short.  Get some para cord and put new ones on…about 5cm in length so you can get hold of them with gloves.
    16. Buy what needs to be replaced…is your head torch knackered by leaking batteries you left in there last winter?  Get a new one….now.
    17. Buy a shed load of AA batteries.  Most head torches and GPS units use them, so buy a stack and keep them in the house, ready.
    18. Old bicycle inner tubes.  Get one and cut it into long strips to make rubber bands.  You can use these to wrap around your folded waterproof map case (with map inside) to make it a manageable size for handling and squeezing in a pocket, as well as reduce the chance of it being blown away.
    19. Practice your nav.  Practice navigating between contour features, to the exclusion of everything else, until you’re comfortable doing it.
    20. Go out at night, even if it’s just local to your house in the local park or round the streets walking.  Some people find night time daunting, but in the winter you’ll spend a lot of time in it.  Get used to it.  Work out what looks bigger, what looks smaller, what looks closer and further away in the dim light.
    21. If the weather is crap, get out anyway – develop some mental toughness.
    22. If the weather is crap, get out and navigate in it, even for just a couple of hours.  If it’s crap and dark, so much the better.
    23. If you don’t know anything about avalanches, get some books and start reading.
    24. Start following the weather on an obsessive level – if you don’t understand meteorology get a book and start reading. The Countryfile forecast on BBC1 on Sundays is excellent for a longer range view.
    25. Find the websites for MWIS and SAIS and bookmark them on your computer and smartphone.
    26. Work out how far your head torch beam shines on full batteries – you can use it as a way of gauging distance for short navigation legs.
    27. How many double paces do you take for 100m?  Is it the same in your big boots?
    28. Sort out your winter partner/s.  I have some friends who I can’t go on the hill with in winter…because they have long legs and I’m a short arse….ever tried following someone with long legs through deep snow?
    29. Learn to get out of bed….early.  Every hour you start early in the morning will save you twice that amount of time in evening/night when it’s pitch black, blowing a hoolie and you’re completely knackered having been on the go for 14 hours…
    30. Chop wood and hammer nails….it helps hand/eye co-ordination and replicates using an ice axe.  It will improve your step cutting and axe placements and has the added benefit of using the same muscle groups.
    31. Shovel shit – by that I mean never pass up an opportunity to do some digging, in the garden or elsewhere.  Whether it’s bucket seats or snow holes you can spend an awful lot of time digging in winter.  So get some practice…
    32. Squeeze balls – tennis balls.  Grip strength can really help in winter.
    33. If you haven’t got any ski goggles, get some…..they’re essential for winter navigation.
    34. Make the decision about whether you’re going to buy & carry avalanche transceivers/shovels/probes….know why you’re making it and agree it with your partner.
    35. Always have your winter sack packed and ready at home…you should be able to head out the door in 30 mins…..if the weather’s suddenly good you need to be able to take advantage of it.
    36. Get a watch with a stop watch function on it…timing navigation legs is crucial in winter.
    37. Go rock climbing at your local crag in the dark with your head torch on.  Initially a scary experience, it will really help when you get caught out in winter and have to do it for real!
    38. I really struggle to eat early in a morning, (I’m usually a 10am man), but in winter the one thing I can manage is porridge with Golden Syrup…Try to get into the habit of eating something…
    39. Go on some walks that have no paths just lots of deep heather – lifting the legs all the time and the drag effect on the feet will mimmick wading through snow.
    40. Get some winter guide books and plan some adventures – get prepared and get excited !!  Have a great winter season !!

     

    To see more of Andy or to find out about guiding or training in the mountains visit Mountain Summits www.mountainsummits.co.uk/

  • The Pendulum

    The Pendulum

    My life is usually taken up with work , gym, climbing and socialising but recently the house move I have mentioned in previous posts has been  dominant almost to the point of suffocation.

    Life has  at times been a crushingly monotonous hamster wheel of packing boxes, moving boxes, building wardrobes and trying to shoehorn all our belonging into a smaller and unfamiliar environment. For my wife its also been an enormous task (which I think secretly she relishes) of cleaning and home making  and I’m so proud of the effort she puts into making us comfortable. We said goodbye to our beautiful home of 10 years a little over two weeks ago but really the move has been happening since late June and is only now coming close to and end.

    Lately we’ve been enjoying time with each other exploring our new town, eating out, going for coffee and most recently I spent the weekend with friends at a music festival. No -one mentioned climbing or the gym – and I didn’t either.

     

    festivalJPG

     

    The Pendulum is swinging.

    At first I was able to put missing the gym and climbing to one side, telling myself I’d be back soon. As time ticks on though its clear I’m swinging further way from this certainty. I tell myself a rest is good, socialising and being “normal” is good for us, we cant always be climbing or training or out in the mountains… but the words are getting hollower by the day.

    The Pendulum is swinging further and further from my passion towards pedestrian pace urbanism and I don’t feel it slowing.

    That my wife (and best friend) is with me of course softens the blow but I know from experience that the Pendulum is very real entity in my psyche and in my life and if I don’t stop the swing (and reverse it ) I can’t be certain of it ever returning me to my chosen life of health and well being based out in the mountains. I’ve not been at the indoor ice wall for months, climbing wall for weeks and the gym only once or twice in the last few weeks.

    In the past the Pendulum has taken me on other life journey’s. I was for a time almost a permanent fixture in the weights room, training 5 or 6 times a week. Before that it was (briefly thanks goodness)  Golf – I had “all the gear and no idea“. For many  years before it was DJ’ing and producing music – and being a full time clubber.

     

    decks

     

    The Pendulum swings and my life follows, consumed,  leaving little room for other interests. How much control do I have over where it goes?

    A Pendulum needs to swing or it stops in a no mans land of the “middle”. Not moving one way, or another. When it stops?

    I’m not sure I want to find out about that.

    Autumn will come and soon after Scottish Winter. The rubicon of the arc will come then.

    The Pendulum is swinging.

  • Thoughts On Why We Climb

    Thoughts On Why We Climb

    A post by Andrew Mallinson our resident expert and Mountain guide

    Events happen in all our lives but I think more than any, death has the ability to make us stop, take stock, re-evaluate and re-calibrate where we’re at.  Those sort of “life, the universe and everything” moments….

    On 1st December my brother died suddenly of a heart attack aged 55.  I have always thought that for the person it happens to, it has to be the way to go….but for those left behind I think the suddenness can be very difficult.  Whether it’s a heart attack or a climbing accident, the sudden brutal finality of it will test anyone.  And yet again, it makes us question why we climb knowing full well that the consequences of a mistake can be disastrous…..not for us, we’re dead, but for those left behind.  The answer will always be personal for each of us as individuals, but funnily enough my brother’s death only served to reaffirm my climbing commitment.  Why?  Because he led a sedentary life, with a poor diet and lack of exercise and it killed him.  If it can happen to him so suddenly in a shopping arcade, then I’m better off climbing…probably improved my life chances actually!

    So, when as recently happened, two climbers were killed in Glencoe on Stob Coine Nam Beith, I thought not of the climbers, but of those faced with the brutal finality.  I started going to funerals early in life – for most people it comes towards the end of their lives.  I was just 18 when I attended the funeral of a college friend aged 20, killed in a climbing accident.  Seeing the grief stricken reality of parents and relations smacked in the face by the death of one so young made a deep impression on me.  It made me analyse why I climbed and once I understood the answer, I knew I would always climb….because it is the person I was born to be, and the life I was born to lead.  The death of my young college friend, others since, my father aged 52 and my brother aged 55 all just confirm that for me, my decision to climb and continue climbing is the right one.  Know why you are doing it……

    Enjoy your climbing…..