Scottish based aspiring mountaineer always on the look out for some new adventure that will stretch and develop me. One half of a husband/wife Alpine adventure couple.
its 2019 …. the year that sci-fi classics like Bladerunner, Akira and Running Man were all set… its going to be an interesting year 😀
Last year for me wasn’t as outdoorsy as I would have hoped.. needed if I’m honest – at times my frustration at not getting onto the hills was bordering on all consuming and the black clouds it brought often made me irritable and less than lovely to live with for my every suffering and amazing wife. But she knows what I’m like.
2018 after some early year winter climbing days was set aside for large house projects and for large job changes meaning we simply had other areas to focus on and I came to accept that.
As we neared the end of the year I looked again at getting out and was lucky to get a great Scottish winter climbing day in the Cairngorms (see Solstice), and then a cracking fun day at the Ice wall in Snow Factor near Glasgow. This was much needed as evidenced by my (lack of) skills ! But soon it all came back, muscles remembering how to swing, kick & pull.
Positive end to the year then, from a mountaineering perspective and so to New Years Day. Some manage to get out on the hills (you lucky, disciplined bastards !) but late nights and lazy bones for us meant we seek something outdoors but nearer instead – and easier if truth be told , and our local environment offers this in abundance.
Living around Uddingston and Bothwell, (near Glasgow) , we have great walking and cycling routes – along the rive Clyde, through woods and even around Bothwell Castle (c. 13th century and pretty bloody impressive!). Leafy, secluded, lit by the low winter sun and depending on route, you can easily walk for a couple of hours in a wide loop back to the house and a warm coffee .
Starting from home its a short 15 minute walk to the start of the wooded path, then along the Clyde at times like glass and then sometimes fast moving, light twinkling through the sleeping bare trees, skirting below the castle the main path winds for a time before rising up to the green embankments around the massive sandstone walls of this impressive yet barely known donjon , chapel, prison and walled fortress of the family Moray.
Once at the castle you can spend a good amount of time circling it, taking in the scale and strength of it, the grounds around it offering protection for attacks and where sieges laid through its history. For a small fee you can access it and enjoy exploring it remaining internal towers, dungeons and chapel grounds and learn about its amazing history (no spoilers here).
With many paths or options to walk your own route the woods are expansive and hide some “ancient treasures” to be discovered and as we meandered off and on the trail we discovered this ancient bridge just in the shadows of the castle grounds but far enough off the main trail that I’m sure many walk past it only a. Few metres away oblivious .
Its a magical place, for being so close to town. It feels miles from anywhere, no houses in sight , just the flow of the river and rustling of leaves , thinking about how from the 13th century people have walked and patrolled these paths around ten castle, sieges held there , battles fought. I wonder how many remain to watch us modern “walkers” strolling along in leisure. I wonder what they think of us.
Cold, brisk, lit by that unique pale winter sun, its distance removing all but the last of its heat – serene and calming – but also energizing as only being outdoors and in the light of a sun can do. At times the light through the trees is a portal to a life much richer, more wonderful and with other levels we simply don’t notice nowadays – something deeper and more powerful, more enriching if only we followed it.
Its becoming more and more clear to society that getting out is a salve from mental as well as physical health – to me its a no brainier. Even 15 minutes they say, 2 hours is better!
2019 – Resolute to get out, as much as possible – off to a good start!
Its been a while.. quite a while. Since about March I think? and i’m feeling every month of the gap. Not enough time in the gym and not enough by far time on the hill recently is evident in my tired legs as i trail after my buddy and MyOutdoors roving reviewer Davy Wright on the admittedly pretty easy walk in to Coire an t-Sneachda, one of the Northern corries of the Cairngorm plateau , South west of Cairn Gorm summit and Winter Climbing nirvana for me to be honest .
Davey in his element
What I love about the Cairngorms is the combination of frankly easy walk ins (especially after a night where we inevitably drink 1 too many single malt and have a less than perfect sleep in the local and very good, hostel) and the sheer number of routes on offer for all winter climbing skill or effort levels (with the appropriate knowledge, equipment and skills of course.. this is the Cairngorms and never to be underestimated ).
In Coire an t-Sneachda alone there are enough routes to keep you going for months never mind a day or 2 so no matter how busy it is or the time of the season SOMETHING will be in and doable.
This in mind, and with a spare day and a very decent weather window Davy and I headed up from Glasgow and arrived at the ski car park at a very civilized 10am , geared up and headed up to the track towards the corrie. A quick 40 mins and we were surveying the faces, Mess of Pottage (already quite busy), Aladdin’s Buttress (much quieter and with some easy gully options and round to Fiacaill buttress, again some parties already on routes, voices and cowbell clanks echoing around the really quite silent face. Almost no wind a lot of blue sky and temps around zero – yet again we had struck lucky! And on the Winter Solstice – the shortest day – we felt blessed by the mountain gods.
Still very early in the Season and with fluctuating temperatures over the last few weeks we opted for a warm up day on an easy gully and after looking around to see who was on what, and based on what we hadn’t done yet we opted for Crotched Gully (II). The guidebook gives a very short but accurate description , correctly pointing out some steep final sections and advising of a frequent large cornice to finish (yes it was accurate) . For a II its great fun, and there are pretty few options for protection placement , not a problem for the experienced but just be aware if starting out.
It is solo’d by some but we always like to take it easy and put in protection even where it may seem quite benign, there are some sections with a pretty long run out if not protected. And besides – placing gear and getting the practice is all part of the game for me.
Keeping things neat on belay, the frozen Lochain below and Loch Morlich down in the valley (Left upper)
We geared up (remembering to put harness on before crampons!), grabbed a quick snack and some water , going through the ritual of preparations we all do and then started to punch up the approach to the first rib of rock at the start of the route to set up our first belay.
Today was also a chance to try out some new gear – in my case the new Aktiv down jacket from a new favourite company of mine – Fjern. You might remember I tested their Orkan waterproof shell in a previous blog and loved it (it still my standard kit as you will see in the pics) so I was keen to see how their other kit fared. Cold belays and a walk off the plateau (always cold and windy) ahea , the Aktiv would get a good run.
The route was a 3 pitcher, fun and steep with a couple of sections where you’d definitely want to be protected all topped off with stunning views across the corries and down to Loch Morlich and Aviemore.
Taking time just to enjoy the views – Loch Morlich in the distance
Its these views, when the air is still and all you can hear is faint voices and the clinking of gear , the cold smarting your face that really make my soul sing. The climbing is great and to challenge yourself physically is a necessary part of my strive for contentment but we can sometimes forget to – as Ferris Bueller put it – ” If you don’t stop and look around once in a while, you could miss it” .
Photos (that I take anyway) don’t do the mountains justice and I’ve noticed as I take more photos so my memory weakens, so I really stop and just look as much as I can, trying to imprint my memory as strongly as I can . It doesn’t always work of course but I try.
As we moved between pitches 2 and 3 the wind slowly started to pick up and the lack of sun on the face saw the temperatures start to dip as the sun hung low on this, the shortest day of the year. Get the feet moving.
The Aktiv down jacket out the bag and big enough to sit over my shell relieving me of the worst of the cold – a bonus being the cuffs while elasticated for a snug fit were flexible enough to slip easily over my gloves and while the hood isn’t helmet technically compatible in the traditional sends it does fit over my Black Diamond Vector and the articulated cut, including arm gussets means the jacket isn’t restrictive at all. The back has a drop which means you cold if desired put your harness over it easily
The Aktiv jacket keeping me warm and toasty on the windy plateau
Finishing the route (Davy leading) meant first moving up the roomy steepening gully , which then open into a bowl but does require punching up through an out a large cornice, blue tinged and not too soft it wasn’t too hard but took a few bashy steps to get up and out the vertical lip (hips in and lean back !), Up and out onto the rocky, wind scoured icey top and “safe”.
The exit leading up to the icy corniceMy happy grin as I bash out to the topViews from the plateau
First thing to do , once you get away from the lip is get your insulation layer on – as Andy Kirkpatrick wrote in one of his awesome books – “Heat is finite” so you need to trap it. As soon as you are still get your layers on so Aktiv back out the bag and on your back, the down re-lofting fast (its an 90/10 Feather/Down 700 fill mix). I opted for the size Large knowing I’d want to put over my other layers and it was ideal, I’m a 42″ chest and tall and (relatively) slim but have broad back and shoulders so if you prefer a more sporty cut the medium may suit but for me the large was idea with room to spare and not restriction of movement. It also means I could zip it up easily over all my gear , including helmet – although this does bring the collar up pretty high – no bad thing in winter! The resulting look reminds me of the Cylons from the original Battlestar Galactica for those old enough to remember it! For a sub £100 down (when on sale) its a STEAL!
The Aktiv over a helmet , and that brilliant high collar.
Gear all packed away, nice chat to a few folks on the top then a decision – do we take the quick way down the Goat Track and back out the way we came or the longer walk across the plateau and down near the ski station . No brainier really – its a cracking day, its good to be out and I need the exercise so off we head and make it back to Glasgow by 6 to enjoy a well earned dram 😉
A rare photo of me leading ! 😀 Second to last pitch
Stats for the Fjern Aktiv- available from their key sales partner SportPursuit here
700FP ethically produced Goose Down
Premium 90/10 Down/Feather ratio
Nylon ripstop outer fabric with DWR (Durable Water Repellent) & down proofing finish
Mini-stitch through baffle construction
Down-filled hood with extended collar for extra face protection & warmth
Internal hood adjusters for a streamlined finish and flexible fit
No-lift gusseted underarms
YKK front zip & internal insulated zip baffle with soft Tricot chin guard
YKK zipped hand pockets – one doubles as a stuff sack
Corded zipper pulls are easy to grab, even whilst wearing gloves
Stretch elastic bound cuffs & hem for a flexible fit
Reflective logo
Hanging loop
Garment weight (size M) 465gm
Down weight in garment – 131gm/size S, 138gm/size M, 145.5gm/size L, 153gm/size XL, 158gm/size XXL
Following Andy’s great and insightful , and I’m sure recognisable post (Yo-yo Mojo) I was determined that while “life” of keeping me busy to get out no matter what this weekend .
The ritual of planning , digging out clothes , pack, deciding where to go , which hat and gloves, long or short base layer , will it rain or not is all part of being us closer to the mountains – it’s the inside bit of getting outside and I find it can really motivate me .
In this case as my other half has not been out in some time and wanted something short but enjoyable we had planned that hill that’s not really a hill – Conic .
A lovely hill yes but usually it’s the first hill we all get up and one we rarely return to (I have it has to be said if I only have a couple of hours , like this weekend) .
Off we set after not to early a start , sun up and only a hint if westerly cloud to be seen.. half way there as we left Bearsden the rain on, clouds black and piss poor planning meaning a risk we’d run out of petrol on the return I decide instead to visit a VERY small hill on the northern outskirts of Glasgow – Achineden hill (from Queens view) .
Wild , a bit wet but a nice walk and great to be out in the winter air with brooding views to Loch Lomond and beyond.
Next time I’ll drop down and check out The Whangie , maybe even get some cragging in.
A guest blog from our mountain guide in residence , Andrew Mallinson (@MountainSummits on Twitter)
Down……..
Weather’s crap. Didn’t sleep well. Want to catch up on Strictly. Fancy some nice food. Then…..
Up………
Blue sky. First frost. Can see the hills. Light dusting of snow. Sun’s out ! Then…….
Down…….
The washing needs doing. Need to food shop. Cottage needs a clean. Then…….
Up……..
Rock will be dry. Mates available. Idea for a new route. Crag faces South too. Then…..
You get the picture……..
We can probably all recognise the pattern described, or at the very least some variant of it. We all have times when we as mountaineers, of whatever hue, lose our mojo. Even working as a professional in the mountains I do too. Indeed, sometimes the last thing I want to do on my days of is guess what ? Head to the mountains…….
But it kinda nags away in the brain….. We’re climbers, and we know it……. It’s what we do….. an essential part of Us. But sometimes, for whatever reason, we just can’t be arsed. And it happens to us all.
So how do we break the cycle ? This unfathomable, cyclical malaise that we all experience from time to time ?
I think it’s essential to differentiate, between real situations that are preventing us from heading for the crag or mountains, and those reasons that we’re using as excuses. The former is understandable. We all have a life, complete with relatives, friends, kids, situations, work places and the like. These can present real inhibitors. They require the exercising of responsibilities, the giving of time, the need to do duty, the need to earn. I myself have been going through Separation – there has been a big cost, both literally and in respect of time. Psychologically, it has been all encompassing and draining in equal measure. This I have found to be a significant inhibitor to my mountaineering ambitions – understandable and very real. I’m not going to be hard on myself – the end is in sight.
However, if you find yourself making excuses rather than making plans, you’ve kinda got a problem. If you’re watching daytime TV, falling asleep on the sofa, cursing the perceived endless crap weather, or bemoaning the lack of enthusiasm from partners, (are they picking it up from you?), you probably need to do something fast.
Every journey starts with a first step. And when indolence strikes, I feel this is the key. Get out. Do something. Do anything. Outdoors. A walk, a run, a bit of bouldering, a night in a tent. Force yourself to do it….. it could be the only time you need to. The smells, sights, sounds, vistas and feelings will most likely be all you need to fire the neurons in the brain. And suddenly the world can look a very different place. Refreshed of brain and body, an inkling of adventures to be had returns. Get out the maps, the guide books, the climbing mags, and take it the next step. Plan a day adventure and make it happen – get rid of the excuses not to do it. Then the snowball is rolling, travelling down hill, and as climbers we all know what happens when gravity takes hold !
A bit philosophical this piece of writing I know, but by recognising the excuses, (for that is what they are !), it enables us to move forward… or rather upward ! Mountaineering, in all its’ multifarious facets, is, I believe, the reflective essence of who we are. It’s always there, within us, and we are better for it. To let it drift away, to let it go, is to lose something of us – to become a poorer person. And funnily enough we all know it, deep down inside.
Don’t be annoyed, don’t be hard on yourself, it happens to us all. Dump the Yo Yo !!!
Get out….. do something outdoors, and you will be back……. back on track to being you.
Andy Mallinson
Mountain Summits
Next time…… “Getting To The Point”…… some thoughts on ice axes and crampons
If you happen to be one of the 5 people who read my blog you may have noticed it’s been quiet for last few months , since spring in fact ..
Last year the highlight of my mountain calendar was my summit of the Monch (Plan B after many other options fell away) with a truly amazing team of friends, before that had been a pretty full on 5 years of hills, climbing, mountaineering, Skiing (badly) and general outdoor chicanery that changed me as a person for ever – and for the better.
2 years ago this December we moved to a new house – our “forever home” we believe – and after some basic repairs and updates we decided this year to do some major work to transform the house into our home, for our lifestyle and to change and improve how we live day to day.
I won’t go into the build details as this isn’t a house blog but as we embarked on it early this year it became harder and harder for me to get time to get out on the hills, or even focus on training. My better half also began travelling far more for work (as did I) and as the activity around the build escalated, clearing rooms, moving furniture, organizing builders and trades and sourcing materials – outdoor time declined. My well-being mentally was going down as I fought myself and the clock to “get out” or to the gym or to the wall .. I felt I was declining in skill, going backwards , losing precious time on the mountains I’d never get back, missing out as friends progressed … yada yada yada – we’ve all seen it.. the young call it #FOMO – Fear of Missing Out, in my case its #LOGO – Lack of Getting Out .
Each week I felt time slipping like my life was being snatched a decade a ta time , not a day at a time, every Social media post of my friends and contacts out adventuring which one enthralled and inspired me now created jealousy, resentment and more self loathing – the pendulum was on the swing once again . All the while my wife was patiently working hard to create a home for us, focused on the bigger picture while I was lost in the wood that I couldn’t see for the tree’s. Each weekend of not getting out felt like another brick between me and a life that I needed, the stress and pent up nervous energy within me was rising, the darker , more insidious unhappiness creeping into the back of my brain. The build and our life in this house was at risk of being something I’d resent rather than relish.
Something had to give.
In an uncommonly clear moment, I don’t exactly remember when – I decided – “I’m not climbing this year.”
I flicked a switch I’d never been able to find before. The pendulum didn’t just stop – it evaporated.
Instead of feeling defeated and like I’d given up I suddenly felt free’d.
And boy did it feel good.
I “paused” my Twitter and Instagram accounts, I followed a stack of people on Facebook (i didn’t manage to give that up entirely) and i turned my whole focus to the house. Making the conscious decision to put myself back in control and choosing not to climb instantly put paid to the feeling of chasing that which I simply couldn’t catch.
It wasn’t the house stopping me climb anymore. I wasn’t climbing as I wanted to focus on home. Conscious decision.
With that small decision i was no longer fighting the tide, “losing time”, or resenting others. I was focused on something worthwhile, I was supporting the joint enterprise and I now knew I could easily flick this new found switch back on after the build. The weight was lifted, the unhappiness was popped like a balloon. Strangely with this new found clarity I also realised my core group of mountain mates were also for one reason or another on a form of hiatus, family, health or just other pursuits . And as I often compare my success or failure to others this undoubtedly helped me realise that life was life and we as mere working mortals with families cant climb every day .
Fast forward and its now October, the house is all done , we love it, its changed our way of living for the better (we are more connected to nature in various ways with it now) and I can now think about mountains again.
I’m back on Instagram (sorry) and loving seeing all the outdoor inspiration, back in the gym getting my body back in condition and just booked my European Outdoor Film Tour Tickets – a yearly pilgrimage that always delights. A lovely extra surprise was the arrival (synchronicity?) of the Magnetic Mountains kick-starter rewards – stunning photography prints from the maestro of Mountain photography Lukasz Warzecha, and a beautiful and emotive drawing of the Les Dru, North Face by Andy Kirkpatrick which will find a prime spot in the new home.
Most importantly I’ve got a Scottish hill day booked with my great buddy Fraser this week – getting out. No goals, no pressure – just get out and enjoy the mountains.
The switch will stay, I no doubt will need it at other times in my life, but its an easy one to flip now and I’m glad I found it.
What seems a long time ago we opened a post about TentMeals with….
“We are absolutely and wholeheartedly dedicated to making the best expedition meals.
We love being outdoors.
We love camping and adventuring.
And we love feeling great.”
Meal design at TentMeals HQ
Jess went on to say
“Our meals are a delicious combination of natural, calorie dense, and easy to prepare. No faff, no hassle, no nasty additives – just high energy health when you most need it.” – again sounds bloody great and I look forward to following up with taste tests soon! … fast forward to now…
.. its been a busy and somewhat bonkers few months but in that time I did get the envious opportunity to test some of Jess’s creations while out and about in the Scottish mountains , in the snow and ice and also share with a vegetarian friend for some objective feedback.
The result?
Awesome frankly! I was given selection of Breakfast (various types of porridge), snacks for the hill (fruit, nuts etc) and also a few main meals to try (all vegan I add!) – and test I did ..
When I say “test” I mean… eat 🙂
We were in the Cairngorms for a weekend of panned Winter climbing and ..we ll some drinking. Based as is traditional at the Aviemore Youth Hostel (SYHA) I took along a couple of breakfasts and the snacks, knowing we would probably be hitting the local pub for dinner. As a stroke of luck Jess had connected me to SIGG so I also got hold of one of their “food jars” which are ideal for carrying and keeping food warm.
My feedback? Thanks goodness the fruit porridge is VERY tasty as after a typical night with my buddies in the pub we tend to be a little fragile in the early morning before a climb yet I managed to eat it , almost completely! Good consistency….
To add some objectivity to the test I also offered a meal (The Almond Jalfrezi main meal) to a colleague at work who does some hill-walking and who also happens to be vegetarian and knows typically what can be achieved in such meals available today. I left her to to it, no instructions from me and then received this mail along with a couple of pics (Thanks to Claire for getting involved!)
“I was pleasantly surprised and thoroughly enjoyed this. I imagined something named “Tent Food” to be bland and maybe stodgy. This was far from it. Firstly it is as it says on the packet, quick to make and delicious. It takes no longer than ten minutes in boiling water. The portion can be large enough for 2 people, I could only eat half however I would imagine if you were on an a large expedition this would be perfect. As a vegetarian I tend to make meals from fresh produce as it can be hard to get a tasty readymade meal that’s not watery and bland. This was lovely. The almonds were lovely and not too crispy or soft and the flavors of the coconut and peppers could be tasted. Absolutely loved this and highly recommend.”
So in conclusion – vegan or not if you are seeking a more natural (non dried) tasty option for expeditions , camping or just travelling food I cannot fault Tentmeals, for meat eaters if you really need to its simple to add some chicken or sausage .
A great find and one that i’ll be including in my food options.
For more info see their website https://tentmeals.co.uk/ or check them out on Twitter @tentmeals or Insta at instagram.com/tentmeals_expedition_food/
Its something we all do, get “complacent through familiarity” .
Be it walking across a road, driving a known street or as in this case, think we are safe on a well know mountain “because we have been here before”.
On the walk in to the Cobbler
I’m glad to say climbing in a team of regular buddies as I tend to do I’m fortunate to have people around me (some with military backgrounds) who tend not to fall into this trap and really do think Safety first, safety second.
Of course as mountaineers we inherently take risks but mitigating them is the key.
This weekends exemplar?
I think that’s me on ascent (photo rights Davy Wright)
After summiting from a relatively easy winter climbing route up the very well known mountain in Scotland’s “Arrochar Alps” – the Cobbler (Ben Arthur) – we arrived mist locked onto what seemed like a fairly narrow and hard to see plateau ridge near (as we had navigated) the south Summit
Question ? How to get off safely and efficiently?
No real obvious land marks but we know pretty much where we were and there didn’t seem too many objective dangers and the terrain is flat so we could get up and walk on a decided upon bearing right?
Wrong.. we can’t see if the ground is solid or cornice, we don’t know 100% where we are as the route we chose deviated and the mist means we cant trust our instinct as to our position.
We checked map/compass and even GPS so knew “where” we were , but that still doesn’t tell you “what” is beneath your feet.
Answer?
Dig deep and set an anchor (axe in this case), set up a seated belay, as always create a straight line between the anchor, you and the leader (avoids rotation in the event of a fall) and then your partner can walk on a rope even if its just 30m in front of you. Not just stand and “hold the rope”… anchors are everything..without them a fall for 1 can easily become a fall for 2.
Davy , on belay heading to the needle , I’m in a well (ice axe) anchored “seated” belay. (sitting in a crater on my rucksack for insulation)
Result?
He was safe , so we were safe – we found out exactly where we were by reaching a reference point (the needle peak on the south summit) and we were able to de-rope, set a compass course and walk off with confidence.
A fall un-roped and un-anchored I would add would have been “catastrophic” and certainty life changing. Wind, cold and tiredness can all make you think the effort is too much , that you just want to get down… that’s where the discipline has to come in as a climber.
Have been here many a time in summer, today Im on a rope – just in case
Don’t let familiarity breed complacency, even seemingly benign ,”known” terrain has risks.
Safety First, Safety Second
On the walk out – safe and happy , the way it should be.
For more information on taking a compass bearing check out this great link on Walk-Highlands .
So let me get it out the way – – I am OCD about weight, space etc and they just typically don’t serve a need for me – i don’t take hot food on a climb and its rarely hot enough in Scotland to need a keep cold solution.
That may be about to change…
This test came about by accident as I was actually about to take a selection of Tent Meals (Vegan friendly but not exclusively vegan expedition/camping meals- see upcoming post) on a winter climbing trip to the Cairngorms and during discussion it was mentioned by Jess and TentMeals that the new SIGG food jar was ideal for the 800kcal meals so one was kindly sent by the folks at SIGG.
SIGG I rate, always have, they have heritage. …Food jars?
I was jury’s out – as i just simply hadn’t tried them before and tbh i had ever really found a jar/thermal solution that truly did what it said on the tin regards keeping food/drink hot or cold for extended lengths of time (think 8-10 hours).
So onto then testing..
This is the SIGG 0.5L Hold & Cold Food Jar – as detailed on Siggs website , it even ships with some great recipes! Solid construction, nice tight light and a handles to carry it / connect it to a pack if desired.
So the spec
0.5L
18/8 Stainless steel
BPA Free
Hot for 10 hrs
Cold up to 25hrs
Leakproof
The test
Staying at Cairngorms in the SYHA i made up one of the porridges from Tent meals and yep it was a good match size wise (with plenty left over ) . The jar would easily accommodate normal porridge and meals like soup, beans and sausages (Davy Wrights favourite) or a whole host of options so from that stand point its winning so far.
Brekkie over I decided to make some hot orange to test its heat retaining properties in the ~ minus 8C tempos around Aviemore and the Cairngorms that day.
Full disclosure.. I left it in my mates van during a gear swap but it sat for around 9 1/2 hours in the extreme cold of Aviemore and when I returned ?
Yep – still very warm, not roasting but definitely warm – would have been great on the cold hill! So far so good….
Wishing I had a warm drink right about now….douh!
Final test – could it keep drinks cold?
I love cold drinks, add ice to them all and even when at room temperature Im not a fan so when heading for a day at he Glasgow Climbing Centres indoor wall with the ampitee charity we support called Funding Your Feet i decided to make up some dilutig orage, add some ice cubes and see how long the Sigg could stop them melting.
I usually fill a Nalgene wide mouth for the wall so taking the Sigg was no extra hassle , and ice in the Nalgene lasts about 30 mins.
I spent around 3 hours at the wall before heading for a drink. I open the jar and? …. still ice! and ice cold juice. Paint me impressed!
Yep, that’s ice after 3 hours
Lid back on I decided to see how long it would last ..
That evening (around 8, so 11 hours after filling) i remember the jar and opened it, ice was of course gone but surprisingly the juice was still cold, not just “room cold” but “fridge cold “. I do’nt spend more than 11 hours out on a hill.. and if so its at night in winter and cold is not an issue so for me this was a 3 hit success for the SIGG!
Its light , its sizeable and it does what it says on the tin (as far as I could test)..
Will I take a jar on the hill now? .. you know what… I just might!
For camping, hillwalking or a day cragging this would be ideal, on a winter climb I’d maybe swap out my Nalgene for it – a warm drink on a cold belay does sound pretty amazing ….. and no Davy Wright you cant have it for your beans and sausages.. see its not listed 😉
For more information contact Sigg or your usual outdoor retailer, and let me know how you find it or any great recipes! Current RRP is £22.99
Its Sunday morning, stunning blue skies and cold temperatures forecast. You don’t want a full Scottish epic or 6am start but do want a leg stretch and a summit so what do you do?
You head to Ben A’an !
Beautiful winter start to the walk from the car park at the base of the route
Ben A’n on the banks of Loch Achry (and close to the very beautiful Loch Venacher) in the Trossachs range is only a modest 454m high and can be done if moving at pace in under 2 hours (as I did recently) but offers the perfect mini mountain adventure.
The middle section of the route. Note trees cleared but great views.
Why do I say this?
A) Its in the heart of The Trossachs so offers the approaches and drive in that is part of the mountaineering “journey”.
B) it has steep sections to get the legs and hearts pumping, easy strolling sections to enjoy chatting and the views, bridges over babbling burns, a small seating areas half way upto take a drink and just enjoy the vista, a rocky steep summit approach that is more akin to something more grand…
and C) the views from it pointy summit are truly stunning – across to Ben Venue and behind it the mass of Ben Lomond, along the impressive water of Loch Katrine , to Ben Ledi at Callander and to Beinn Ime and behind you on a clear day to Ben More, with everything in between. … Its at this point I remind all readers I am hopeless still at identifying all but a few mountains from a distance but reviewing the map I’m pretty certain of these being right!
The paths a mix of easy rough trail, steps and a final steep rocky sections or easy summit pathLovely steep and interesting path and rocky surroundings (watch the ice!)
The one downside and its somewhat minor in my opinion is that recently the forestry area was cleared as part of the ongoing and necessary cycle of management but while we lose a forest walk we gain views
Up and at em yesterday then, joined those others with the same idea and up we went, negotiating the icy steps, enjoying it immensely, having a bite to eat on the summit, taking pics and just “being there” and then back down for lunch.
Superb!
For the full description to Ben A’an and for other maps and walks check out the brilliant Walkhighlands.co.uk
Hopefully you have now got over the hangovers, stopped eating chocolate as a major food group and have managed to get out of bed before lunch (just me?) and are looking forward to an exciting year ahead.
I know a great number have already been out and about , with lots of climbing and hill walking pics gracing my social media feed.
I made it for 1 great day of winter climbing in the Cairngorms and have a couple coming up very soon so it already feels like we are off to a god start after what felt like quite a quite year adventure wise in my house.
Reflection is always part of looking ahead and one great way was to run the #2017BestNine app on Instagram to see which 9 pics of the year drew most attention.
I know social media isn’t a yardstick by which to live your life but it can be a good way of combining memories or capturing moments in time for reflection. As long as we all remember doing is far more important (and far more rewarding ) that posting about it.
Here are mine! I’d love to see yours, post any links you have to them in the comments section or come connect on Instagram
In order top left to bottom right :
Prepping for a winter climb early 2017, Prepping gear for the Swiss alps, a picture reflecting our collective global feeling of loss when the sad news of Ueli Steck came in, Davy Wright descending the Monch SE ridge in front of me, The indoor walls of EICA (Edinburgh) , me on the approach to the summit on the Monch, my pack ready for heading up to the Monch, a throwback pic from the Marbrees ridge on mt Blanc (2016), another crop shot of Davy on the Monch Ridge.
So after couple of years and a very wet winter last year on Ben Nevis’ Tower Ridge it became clear my Rab Polartec Neoshell just wasn’t cutting the mustard as a true winter waterproof shell.
Before I start .. I love Neoshell to wear. Its the softest, most flexible hard-shell I’ve ever come across that claims the levels of waterproofing and breath-ability it does. For climbing its a dream. But.. its not “truly” waterproof when it really comes down to it. The membrane is very good but with sustained wetting eventually that uber soft, uber flexible and breathable membrane has to give…
I note this season at least one large brand has now stopped using it while some still do so it still has its place.. mostly in cold, “dry” snow and ice conditions.. ideal for apline or icy dry Scottish winter climbing.. but not if its going to be wet…
So… I need a new shell.
My criteria isn’t simple so its hard to find .
1 – I don’t ideally want the rhino hide, rustling paper of some fabrics (typically in my experience the Gore Tex ones)
2 – It needs to be waterproof, ideally to about 20,000mm head
3 – It needs to be breathable, I run hot on walk ins so need it to vent well
4 – Pockets I can actually get to with a harness and pack on.. ideally napolean pockets
5 – a good helmet compatible hood, wired if possible and one i can shape to fit my wee head and velcro cuffs for keeping snow out
6 – A good colour… no affect on performance but hey I hate black or dark gear
7 – robust enough to cope with a Scottish winter but cost less than £300.
So after much hunting around, trying on and almost giving up I stumbled across the Fjern Orkan shell on the outdoor discount eTailer SportsPursuit.
If never heard of Fjern but it immediately caught my eye for its climbing look and the fact it was eVent fabric which I’d heard might be the balance I was looking for. It didnt have the chest pockets I usually crave but the pockets were listed as set high enouhg to clear a harness. At a heavily discounted price down from £300 it was also perfect price wise!! I figured if it sucked I could take the hit so I pressed buy and it arrived a fast few days later.
Fjern as a company first .. hard to find! If you google them you tend to hit retailers sites, or eVents site.. finding Fjerns own page is a quest ! But find it I did – click here . Fjern is a UK based company made up of outdoor enthusiasts (Hikers, climbers , skiers) who believe in the “Nordic spirit of adventure” which I actually really like. Yes its manufactured in China but most kit is these days, with the quality and design set at the domestic base (this case in the UK) If you follow my blog you know I really champion smaller companies and family business – so far so good.
The Jacket now.
The Below test is taken from the Sports Pursuit website and is the science bit (shortened)
DESCRIPTION
Engineered with the worst alpine conditions in mind, the ORKAN gives you the confidence to strike out into the wilderness, whatever the weather.
Crafted using eVent® fabric with Direct Venting™ technology, the ORKAN keeps precipitation out whilst allowing perspiration to escape. Packed with technical features including a fully adjustable helmet compatible hood, internal taped seams and an anatomical fit.
Waterproof rating 20,000mm
Breathability JIS 1099 B1 26,000 g/m2 24hrs
Features:
Waterproof, Windproof, Breathable, Lightweight and durable 3-layer fabric with Nylon face
Unique eVent® membrane with Direct Venting™ technology
DWR finish (Durable Water Repellent) helps repel water from fabric surface
Taped seams and seamless shoulders for added waterproofness
Anatomical shaping for fit and comfort, designed for technical layering
Articulated elbows for freedom of movement
No-lift gusseted underarms
Fully adjustable helmet compatible hood with laminated & wired brim
Laminated centre front zip guard with soft tricot trim zip garage
Extended high collar for extra face protection
YKK water repellent zippers
Two large zipped hand warmer pockets, positioned high enough to avoid harnesses/backpack straps
Internal stretch mesh pocket, large enough for storing gloves, map, goggles etc
Underarm pit zips with water repellent zippers
Moulded zipper garages to protect closure from snow and rain
Hypalon Velcro cuff adjusters
Adjustable drawcord hem with drop back for extra coverage
Fabric weight 138gsm / Garment weight (size M) 540gm
Label highlighting the Direct Venting technology that eVent employ.
So – how did it do?
As a test the conditions were pretty good – a winters day in the high Cairngorms, winter climbing with my buddy and gear test expert Davy Wright (part of the MyOutdoors Test team).
We arrived at the Cairngorm ski centre around 8am, the wind strong already and the temperature around -5c so layers and shell straight on. First thing I notice? Hood works well.. cinches down as needed and my chin is covered with the collar well. No ballooning like some other shells. The cut is athletic meaning its neat where you don’t want too much volume but (as in this case) is cut to allow movement of the arms etc when climbing.
Rear hood cinch, there are also two pull cords at the front, very easy to access even with large gloves.
Next think I notice that I like is the high side pockets, easily accessible above harness or rucksack straps and great for warming hands which is what I need right now as we prep to head off up into the Coire.
eVent branding on arm and cuff velcro’s. Notice the articulation seams.
Off we set to wards Coire an t-Sneachda and to see whats in nick (if anything). The wind is howling straight at us making the walk to the lochain tougher and colder but again the hood sits well, shielding my eyes from the worst of spin drift being blown at us alike white sandblast.
With the 30-40mph headwind the going is slower than usual and its about an hour and a half walk in but the eVent works its magic and I’m not sweating at all despite the thin baselayer and mid layer (result!) , in fact in terms of comfort i am very pleased! No faffing to add/drop layers as I usually have to do.
And if I had found the going too warm there are 2 zipped pit vents (with decent pull cords)
High hand warmer pockets and pit zips
To be honest, by this point I’d forgotten all about the jacket.. which is actually the sign of superb kit.Iit just works when you need it to.
We get to the crag base, gear up and head up to the start of the route.
Alladin’s Butress in Coire an t-Sneachda, North Cairngorms
The route itself was a steep snow ramp , followed by iced up rocky couloir and then a step rock and ice section before topping out over snowy broken ground onto the arctic summit plateau of the Cairgorms. The point of telling you this? At no point in all my movement, climbing, grabbing gear, standing at belays or anything else did i get annoyed with a flapping hood, tricky to access pocket or the jacket riding up as I climbed on my axes. basically it was perfect! The dropped back and clever articulation throughout the cut of the jacket means movement is totally unhindered, no matter how gymnastic.
Testing in full conditions (thanks to Davy for the pic). Notice pockets still accessible and helmet fitting well under the adjustable hood.
The cuffs can be cinched as much as wanted d off via the Velcro tabs and the chin guard is layered in soft fabric so wont rub your face red raw. A helmet fits under the hood perfectly with draw cords allowing for individual fit.
The wind as mentioned was ferocious when out of the lee of the hill but while I could feel its edge I wasn’t cold. Tired and elated yes.. but very comfortable !
Its here that eVent and GoreTex differ I believe (and I’m open to say don’t have any science to back this up – if any GoreTex Brands out there want to, just get in touch and I can happily test one ) .
If you tend when climbing or walking, to feel the cold the windstopping properties of Gore will work better for you , bit you sacrifice comfort and potentially breath-ability for it. For eVent you may feel the wind a smidge more but you can breathe well and dont get such a stiff fabric so if you tend not to run cold its ideal.
Weather wise the Orkan didnt get the full deluge test yet , snow and ice made no ingress on the membrane and it beaded perfectly and retained a dry top feel, but back home it was bucketing with rain and it seemed to stand up to it fine, beading well, not wetting out (as I live in Glasgow this test will continue often! )
My verdict overall on my heavily discounted, “unknown brand” eVent Shell?
Its a keeper!
So much so that within 24hrs I had sold on my Rab NeoShell and look forward to more mountain days in the Fjern.
Whether you are walking, scrambling or winter climbing I genuinely recommend this shell. It feels great and looks pretty smart too (I know less important but still a decision point for some).
You can connect with Fjern on Instagram here . They stock a small but focused range of both mens and womens clothing and I will certainly be checking out other items.
For completeness I didn’t receive this jacket as a test “freebie” but purchased it so I hope you read my test as genuine. All feedback welcome! And if any brands would like me to do an honest test and review please do get in touch,
Scottish Winter – that season we all crave – ice, snow, neve.. climbing gullies, ice or mixed when prep includes sharpening point things, planning how many pairs of gloves you might need (I take at least 3) and the travel decisions include who’s car isn’t rear wheel drive to cope with icy tracks.
Its long , cold, dark (but somehow also sweaty) walk-ins with a pack that I’m sure gets heavier every year despite me training more.
Its wondering what conditions will be like, will it go? will it still be there after that slight rise in temperature.. will there be another 50 people also trying to get up it meaning the long, slow freezing wait on belay stances.
Its frozen ropes, sodden gloves, painful and somehow also numb fingers, running noses and feet of frozen pins and needles.
Its “hurry up I’m bloody freezing” or “slow down I’m trying to get this gear out this icy crack”.
It’s bloody brilliant and we are all waiting for it – especially after a poor season last year.
Last weekend we saw it start.. mid week social media posts of rimed up rock and teams out on serious grades taunting us weekend warriors.
Sunday? Quick hit says Davy? .. tricky , got a dinner. Aye. I’m in!
6.30 we set off from mine to get to Glencoe for 8.15am.. the aim to be at the base of Boomerang Gully in the high bowl of Stob Coire nan Lochan after the torturous 800m trudge up from the valley floor by 10.30. “They don’t call it the Hurt Lochan for nothing” says a passing climber.
We made it .. it hurt.
Can you spot Davy? The Hurt Lochan walk in (SNCL in the clouds)
That final steep push out of the valley and pop out up to the lochan now, the black walled amphitheatre that forms our objective behind it . Routes all across it , all grades.. and surprisingly empty.. then again with so little in nick its not really that surprising but fortune favours the brave so …
The view behind as you near the Lochan , Aonach Eagach
mmm … a lot of Andesite black.. not so much snowy white .. ah lets give it a bash.
Up over broken ground, more rock than snow, into the mouth of the gully. up into deeper, light but slowly hardening snow then into a rock to gear up.
Davy moves off taking first lead, moving together, little abject danger. We arrive at a rock step that normally in winter would be fully banked out. Choss, dirt and some semi frozen turf is all that on offer as Davy puts some running protection in and manages over it, me following.
There was more snow than this .. honest!
I swing lead, laying the footprints higher up the gully, breathing hard, swimming at times but every stop to look around reminding us of the sheer joy it brings. The steep route below us, to be perched high and exposed looking across the whole range of mountains around us from our vantage point.
The between the legs backwards shot
Davy swings again to lead, timing is everything and he is again at the sharp end when we hit the next small mixed section. Some fun with axes and hes over and up. I follow and while making my move up my crampons fail to catch and i take the full weight of my slightly out of shape body on one axe…. bomber ! (That ice wall practice paying off again). The shock brings a smile … now we are climbing !
Davy leading the last mixed section
We easily make it up now and out, the hoolie of the wind tearing at Goretex. we strike right across the top of the gully and to the descent to top of broad gully to drop back into the quiet, muffled protection of snow and out of the wind.
Out of Boomerang and across and down to Broad (just right of Davy)
Its steep and not too full of snow so downclimb to start then turn and trudge down and out.
Heading out the bottom of Broad Gully
Late, that dinner I need to go to.. off we go , getting back to the car in a quad-killing, heart pounding 1hr15mins… and off we race back to Glasgow. Excruciating cramp spasming through my legs as I drive.
Was it the perfect bluebird winter climb – no.
Was it brilliant day, climbing in beautiful mountains with a good mate? You betcha!
McLovinMountains.com 